Some of those compressors would leak around the housing. Soap bubbles around the where the out casing meets together may reveal the source of your leaking. (That's the outer shell of the compressor body itself)
On a side note, at 7°F outdoor ambient, that saturation temperature is below the...
Just a friendly little tip for ya.... only add refrigerant. All that extra additive stuff isn't going to help, but more like hurt you in the long run. Refrigerant systems are closed loop. It doesn't burn oil like the engine does... and like over filling the crankcase, the same type of damage...
From experiences that others have shared with me... 134a is a whole different animal if you are comparing to an R12 "experience." R12 would run a colder air temp out of the vents. R134a has more ability to move heat (more efficient)... so it needs a bigger condenser like Missy said. It will...
When my glow plug relay took a dump, the WTS light stayed on regular time, but it did light the SES light afterward with a code for glows or relay (several years ago, gotta look back). It had feed back from the relay on an OBD-II system to code if the glow plug relay failed to send voltage to...
Short glow cycle could mean a shorted engine coolant temperature sensor wiring. Extremely long (and other issues like no overdrive) could lead to open sensor being seen by ECM. With all that engine work, something may have been displaced, rubbed, chaffed, messed up or intermittent...
Engine ground on block would create other issues than a signal/high beam problem. Did you hear the clicking of the turn signal without light?
Could be the difference between instrument panel or turn signal/high beam switch. Did the high beam headlights actually switch without the blue...
I was told many years ago that electronics "usually" fail front end... That is electronics, not hard drives. That's why some electronics manufacturers do a "burn in" to make sure that all works. Powered on for x-amount of time. Instead of failure rate being shaped like a bell curve for...
Something else to check is if there is a valve to the rear core... The bus used to have a vacuum operated valve for the rear heater... which I don't think was a GM OEM offering... but a thought. It was also a vacuum operated HVAC system in the front. But as said... it should be a servo...
See also if plugging in block heater overnight will make any difference on startup...
That lift pump is a good thing to test too... like duramaxdude said....
Alternator capacity get's compromised when you turn up the head.
Check out Penn-Tex's website to give you an idea about what happens.
I hope this isn't a case of where the autoparts store is giving you the wrong alternator for the application.
Very interesting... that goes against logic too. Faster impeller speed *USUALLY* ends up in higher flow rates. Is that because the impeller is loosing efficiency and cavating -OR- is it because the flow rate increases and the thermostat closes down to compensate resulting in lower flow...
I'd like to see some chatter on that to see what I'm missing on that with the application of it to a 6.5. Maybe we can make up a "reference material" thread on it once everything is compiled.
How about a tool/resume thread. A thread for "applying" for jobs that come up to help folks out. List out your abilities and where you are at and if you want to travel.
That will help to build a database of folks who like to be included in anything in the future, what they can do, and if...
I was thinking of our conversation the other day Tim.... maybe we need to prune this off into it's own thread....
I don't think I can wrap my head around this "flow to fast" and not exchange heat idea. I need to look into this further, research it or something if there is a term for it. I...
Diesels run best when warm. They are a "heat engine." Closer to 195, the more efficient it runs. 180F is a band aid to not getting the heat out... it just gives you a little buffer. You've only got a gallon or two of coolant in the system, so 15F won't last long if you are not getting rid of...
There is talk of adding tranny fluid to your fuel system.... the better additive would be 2 cycle oil for adding lubricity to the fuel. It's designed for combustion, whereas the tranny fluid is more designed for the complex tranny situation.
My read of it seems to not lend to APP. You've...
Outstanding guys! This gathering is the best on the net for folks who know how to gather together and get it done. Either behind the keyboard or the bumper.
Kudos to all! Having been on the receiving end before of such mercy from this group, I know the feeling Deere.