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Scored a new diesel compression tester today. Did the drivers side (why else?) so far. Disabled the IP fuel shut off solenoid (which must leak by because it still "wanted" to try to run). So, ended up cracking injector lines as an insurance policy. I've only ever read of around 400...

Yepper, a gasser with a hydroboost... 1 ton Express 3500. Pulley was turning. No bypass sound either. I read something online in alldatadiy about a vacuum test on the reservoir in case there is air the has entered the lines. Apparently GM has put out a bulletin on a lot of "no-defect...

Dup! Was distracted, googled and found. Will post more later... Thanks!

Fishing around now for kojo tune on here..... gotta link?

Thanks bk95td! Most of the concepts you've outlined I'm familiar with. I'm just looking at the pecking order of how to do this. Like: I upgraded my exhaust, and I averaged about 2 mpg more... or installed Heath's ECM and went from 15 to 21 mpg... stuff like that.

Since we've now locally crossed over the $4 mark, considerations are being made now to say "what else can I do here to increase MPG". So, on a dwindling budget due to increased food and fuel costs, I would like to know, what the consensus amongst everyone would be for best investment made...

In my gasser van the other day, I had to take it out for a quick ride to pickup two escaped dogs out the front door. Basset hounds can't find their way home once they leave for some reason, but I digress.... So, in a hurry, I start up the van, head to the end of the driveway and have to put...

Think of it as the opposite of a nitrogen or air pressure regulator. If you have a high pressure side that was between 90 psi to 2000 psi. The outlet pressure was set to 25 psi. The regulator would be varied amounts of lets say 90% to 99.971242% closed based on how much flow was required to...

You are correct in thinking of construction... but the operational end is just a wittle bit off. :) There is two ways are regulator can regulate. Based on inlet conditions, or outlet conditions. The construction of the CDR is concerned about crankcase pressure. Yes, it does go more closed...

Stuck shut and pressurizing the crankcase under load? If I understand it right, it regulates the vacuum level in the crankcase. If it's shutting back... it's regulating the amount of "vacuum" in crankcase by throttling it to it's max set level of 6"wc. It just has to do with the side that is...

Oil into the turbo would be normal... Stuck open can only be determined by vacuum level within the crankcase while running and best tested on the roadway. You could use a magnehelic manometer, or fashion your own U-Tube manometer to verify operation. It regulates in inches of water column of...

That was explored years ago by one who swore by it... later returned with hat in hand and said, that he should not have done it. That's called the CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) That little do-hicky helps provide reduced pressure in the crankcase (more vacuum, more power can be...

That adjustable controller sounds like an A1 Customs job... That goes to the PMD/FSD, not a boost fooler.

I had that same problem all of a sudden one day with bus 1. I can't remember now if it was 5-10 mph off. It was spot on, then one day... boom. Dead on with OBDII recorder that I used to plug in. Still gathering thoughts here on this tire size situation.... So, going with 235's is going to...

Needin' some new tread on the suburban.... have the stock LT245... thinking of stepping up to LT265... in attempt of getting better MPG without a rear gearing change. Can you go more/less... pitfalls and good points... thoughts?

The thing that makes those alternators so cheap at the parts stores is they are just rebuilt... you are really paying for the warranty. Life time warranty sounds attractive, so they price it out to you gambling on several replacements and they are still making money. I had a local guy...

You should be good to go for a long while with the fuse setup... The only time you should have a problem would be under extreme high draw or when you have killed your batteries. The alt will then have to struggle to charge dead batts and may blow the fuse.

Are you wondering because you are having a problem you are diagnosing?

x2... Fusible link issue yes... but check that little wiring harness. Had same issue with bus 1 w/PennTex alternator. Tach would jump, and the alternator light would flicker, BUT had good voltage the whole time.

Since I don't have a pyro, and I don't have a fixed boost gauge (I was testing through the window only) maybe ya'll can learn me somethin' here. ;) Okay, boost and EGT Question: Let's say we are burning dead on the money. We don't have any excessive boost, and we are not under burning...