This is why I don't spend much time in this section...................... always makes me worry.
So far I've had to replace injectors and injector pump once. Some other problems that were from misuse when I first bought the 2nd hand truck, but nothing since and I worry all the time when the...
I'll need frame dimensions, inside width, outer width, length from cab to end, from end to center of rear axle yoke. I'll lay you out a basic frame, then if you want we'll get into more detail on decking and skirts, boxes & etc. if you wish
Blake, a more truthful statement has neever been made................... when it comes to strength you can never go too far.
1994 if you want I can lay out a frame for you in CAD and send it to you in a pdf file you can print, will need dimensions if you want.
Most places I've dealt with in texas will sell drops at surplus price and let it go by the pound........usually works out much cheaper that way.........for me.
In case 1994 don't know what I mean, here's an example:
You need 4 sticks of c-channel in 3 x 1.5 at 6 foot long.
they might sell you 2...
Buy in surplus or salvage steel...........if you can get it. It'll be cheaper than buying new.
Figure exactly what lengths you need and see if that helps.......sometimes steel yards will sell "drops" cheaper if they have some pieces long enough to make up what you need without buying full...
No, I'd get c-channel.......if you get tubing and water or mud gets in it.........not to mention condensation, it'll rot(rust) out get the c-channel in the sizes you mentioned above.
just over 34K..............dang seems like I just mentioned this someplace yesterday.
moved a 3t dy 6 miles because a heavy hauler wanted too much. many times have hauled my backhoe.............. 24K rated dovetail g/n with the hoe weighing in right at 19600 to 20K......... she pulls that like...
I knew you loved the Cats bro........... I am rather fond of them myself.......though my hoe is a Case............. I prefer the case for versatility and speed
:nonod: sorry, I don't carry a camera with me all the time................. hell seldom if any of the time. It was a last minute thing where I said WTF..........let's try it and so we did. Friend that were there with me thought nothing of it...........they never expected me to NOT be able to...
I would call a 3T D7 quite a load at 34K............was a bit worried the ball would snap, since it's only rated at 30k.......or that the trans would blow, but only needed to move it 6 miles trucker with low boy wanted nearly 400 dollars to move it.
I completely agree. No need for turnover ball if recessing, and I really don't trust turn-overs. But I still think you should never weld a ball in, simply because you may need it out at some point.......... do believe in tacking the nut to threads once tightened though, just a takc that can be...
On another note.......... I was always taught and have always since, made the ball placement directly over the yoke of the rearend. All factory installed hitches I have seen matched this "theory" also.
no offense, but that channel currently holding your ball doen't look like "much" to me...........i'd build a pocket out of channel and plate to put it in that ties it to the beds frame whcih in turn will tie it to the frame.
If you use something like 4" light c-channel with a 2" web for your main rails then 3" c with a 1-1/2" web for cross bracing that should put you high enough for your ball wo be sunk below deck height and give you plenty clearance so you won't need "bed humps" for tire clearance..
Use 2 pcs...
Yes, that is what I was kinda getting at........ I have welded some in, but I ALWAYS recomend that the perosn replace the ball if there is a problem rather than "weld it out" for them. I have no doubt my welds would hold and I am sure the ball would break before one of my weld would, but I still...