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ive done this all for the most part... 12v is good at pink wire... ive converted my mechanical pump to electric with a recommended 6.5 mechanical part number pump from this site... Clear lines been on it and no air at all... running or anything... also fuel stays in the line with no air for...

10-4... all the compressions check at around 300... but thats also after turning over several times... i think most people say 6 rotations on a warm motor... i couldnt do mine warm but it took more like 12 rotations to get up to that compression... then i bled the line and did it again and it...

ya but if im gonna do rings and all that then i may as well do my 599 block 6.5... or rebuilt this one... i know the optimizer is "better" but for just a normal truck i dont see why another 100k isnt achievable from what i have... its just costs... it may be cheaper to just buy one of those and...

it may even be cheaper just to buy a military take out for what i want... some guy in AL has them for $1500 and have all been compression tested and ready to go... none are rebuilt and all have less then 50,000 miles... may be cheaper to go though rout...

i mainly bought it for towing... reg rab 4x2 flatbed... 3 speed + granny low... 4.10 geared 14bolt with the G8... i wont keep it forever towing probably as i need a 4 door and would like something newer but probably a couple years if i had to guess... i just picked up a 5th wheel that ill be...

when i do go injectors is there a reason to upgrade then if im staying without the turbo? id like to build it up a little as parts need replaced... injectors... exhaust... better intake system... all that bolt on stuff... but if i need to do injectors i may as well go with something that puts...

today i stopped by harbour freight and picked up their snap on quality diesel compression test kit ;) was like $40 and actually had the fitting to mount the compression tester in the injector hole... same threads and everything... so i did... however the engine was not hot and running before...

thanks guys...

well that was a fail... bought a oreillys special boroscope and its really not bad but i cant get through the precup with it... i may could if i didnt have a swole up glow plug in the way... guess either way the head needs to come off... im wondering how the shop did a compression check on that...

was thinking about scoping it... should tell me everything i need to know hopefully... waiting for the wife to get home so i can go pop the hood and see what i wanna do...

dang i didnt think about a broke arm... isnt that common on these?

number 7 is ZERO... lol... heads gotta come off... check... and i wouldnt see why you wouldnt be able to rethread them? im surprised nobody else has but i guess the 82's few and far between... the holes cant be that much different in size but im newer to this motor anyways... minimum...

the other 7 were between 280 and 300 i was told... which i think is a little low but least they were all the same... im gonna do a compression check on this 6.5 mechanical i got for my crawler... if its good then ill go through it and stick it in the 82... rebuild the 6.2 for the crawler...

i started a new thread more related... worst case scenario... CHECK!

truck JUST turned 100k but prior owner said something to me about using starting fluid... probly the killer... whats my options?? with just low miles could i just pull the bottom end and replace rings? given there isnt a giant piston hole and valve damage when im in there... it doesnt leak or...

well i swapped the return line with a clear hose... NO air... running or not... also i got to thinking about it and i believe the electronic fuel pump has its own check valve... so i havent installed a inline one... if im not getting air in the return line then more then likely a check valve...

Yes replaced both filters when I did this work yesterday I hope it's not a IP issue other then bleeding back... it doesn't have a ton of miles on it or nothin... but we will see lol... may be next weekend before I can get a check valve on it to test that... I'll report back regardless of the...

Don't say compression lol... it is possible... dude that owned it before me said they guy who owned it before him used ether to start it... I've needed a reason to buy a compression tester anyways I guess... hopefully the check valve does it... I would think pressure between the injector and IP...

I placed the pump there because it kept it in the same order as the mechanical pump... it may do better elsewhere though... problem is I have hard line all the way to the dual tank switch so it wouldn't be easy anywhere else... it can be done though... there is rubber spot by the AC and Heat...