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x2 on don't be afraid to take it apart. Get a digital camera and snap a picture every step of the way even. LABEL THE INJECTOR LINES TO THE CYLINDERS with masking tape (which are labeled on the intake) In the mean time if you want to keep driving it. Its a good time to start saving...

I could use a little firmness shifting into OD for sure. Also what bothers me, is if I manually shift into 3 from OD the TCC Unlocks, shifts, then locks up again. Unnecessary wear. I really hate no control of the TCC. I suppose a Heath Reflash would address alot of this issue? Doesn't the...

His rear FSU is probably garbage Aces...

If i hold my breath I can squeeze my torso between the rear tank and bumper allowing me plenty of work room to change either FSU. I need to drop the front driveshaft to access the front. Here some pix The camera is sitting dead over the rear tank & FSU taking these pictures for reference. The...

I was thinking the same thing. I took a nice picture of my rear LP but somehow it got lost before making it from inside the trucks ass to the computer :) I'll go crawl back up there and take another picture.

There is no switch to change tanks, the rear pumps to the front tank.

I sure do. Uses different rear FSU and has an exact stock replacement liftpump that pumps from the rear tank to the front tank. The front tank then pumps the fuel to the IP obvoiusly. the 2nd LP must be run off the float of the rear tanks FSU is what i've come to believe. Here is my...

You're absolutely right here bud. 3/4 ton, nice 8' plow, what a nice plow-rig is right... super maneaverable compared to pickups. Great Idea... got my wheels spinning.

I'm going to throw this in about the mounting surface. When the truck is parked and the engine is piping too hot to touch engine compartment, I can feel that heat radiated onto my bumper and everything else. It seems the plastic skidplate doesn't get nearly as hot as the surrounding metal...

I think the best method is that machine that hooks up to the cooling lines and completely replaces the fluid as it passes through and out. I wouldn't go adding cleaning additives by any means what-so-ever, but that is ime.

Whose truck is this? Gradual symptoms, or all of a sudden?

Same here, but I'm all for someone tossing one of these on a 6.5 and seeing what it does to aid the inadequate flow heat. If it can shed the extra heat, its a win.

I have never done a thorogh break-in before on new pads or rotors like this. What does this do again?

Interested in the answer here too. Basically saying combustion pressure is getting into the coolant system, but not the other way around. Whatever the issue is, it takes alot more than the 15psi or so the cooling system maintains to breach the seal.

Rememeber the orientation and which one is which. Label parts and put in baggies if it helps. I can't think of a reason you can't leave the manifolds attached to the heads if you can cut the crossover flanges/bolts apart to get it out. Its not overwelming, don't be scared. Give yourself...

me too. I changed out both calipers and bled conventionally with no issues.

1 3/16's deep socket will also do the injectors I can't imagine how you're going to undo all the exhaust parts without a torch. I needed new x-over donuts and hardware too. New manifold bolts i needed too. (hardware store)

there are 17 bolts per head

Don't forget you'll need new upper and lower intake gaskets, and I needed a square of blank gasket material for a water jacket up front. Red RTV for manifolds, find out what RTV you need for the threads of the head bolts. If you are keeping the truck no matter what, it is a perfect time to...

Best of both worlds!!! Creme of the crop!