You should be able to very slightly open the valve with strong hand pressure, the seated valve spring pressure is slightly over 100 ft-lbs on a 6.5.
Even if you have the engine at TDC you will still need a tool to compress the spring and remove the keepers. I use air pressure, it absolutely...
Gold ends of the push rods go up. Most of the gold friction reducing material will be worn off by now anyway but what the heck.
Make sure the engine is not on top dead center when you re-install the rocker arms and shaft. There is a substantial chance of the lifters filling with oil when the...
A myth. That is unless you do not bother to check your tire pressure for months at a time. It is a stretch but I suppose if the air leaks out faster than the nitrogen fill then underinflated tires could affect your fuel mileage in a negative way.
1- This site is way better than the other one, less stuff gets moved here. It happened/happens alot on the other site. I remember many threads on the other site with guys begging mods to leave their thread in the 6.5 section so somebody could read it and help them.
2- I did not vote in the...
You do not really have the option that RC suggested in your poll. I think what he wants is what is needed. I often see guys asking questions specific to our trucks, but not our engines sit with no answers in the Dmax centered forums. When they do post here about items other than our engines the...
Same here.
If anything needs to be added, it would be sections that can keep our areas of our generation of pickups in our area. I see lots of guys coming to the 6.5 section asking questions that are never answered in a Duramax forum. The questions are asked about transmissions, body...
Well that was alot of hot air. I know this might offend some people but I do not think it is fair for other people reading this and considering the use of studs to be discouraged by this thread.
Everybody here pretty much agrees and knows that the ARP head studs work better than the stock...
6.2 head studs are 4.750"
.150" longer studs are not worth the extra $259.00. There is no way that a 2003 block is different enough to need that little wee bit longer length of head stud.
I dynoed a Ford 408" Windsor drag race / street engine a couple of months back. We ran the engine for its complete break in, and then about a half a dozen initial setup and tuning pulls. At that point the owner wanted to change the oil to the Royal Purple. I believe it had Rotella 15-40 in it...
That would be real pleasurable on a cold morning here in Saskatchewan waiting for the glow plugs to pre heat.
Even if it is something that I would not want in my truck I admire the effort. Maybe you should market that to female operators.
Send me one and I will cut it apart properly and post pictures. I am pretty sure I have had them apart in the dyno room as well but I can not guarantee it. I checked out some internet pictures and they seem familiar. You do get what you pay for, I am sure that the extra cost is somewhere in...
Synthetics are superior, without question. Once you use it in your engine you can never go back to the conventional oils or you will have problems.
The only issue with using synthetic oil in a diesel engine is this: Diesel engines get alot of carbon deposits into the crankcase that a gasoline...
I use Lucas oil stabilizer as well.
The new engine is already set up to have an engine oil temperature guage.
If you gave me a free Fram filter I would not use it. I have cut way too many oil filters apart in the last 20 years to even consider using one. No matter what Fram says or...
The clearances are somewhat loose in these engines. More modern gasoline engines have way tighter clearances, especially on the bearings. Stick to the 15-40. Some guys up north here use 0-40 in the winter but they all go back to the 15-40 in the summer.