Search results

Sounds like someone possibly slapped a band-aid on it to sell and suckered you into it. is it from a dealer or individual? used car dealers around my area are known to do this to folks and will claim "as is no warranty" in the contracts. I recall something here in TX passed recently where...

Welcome Teddy, I would start off by checking the trans fluid for level, color and smell. also make sure all fuses are good since this is an electronic trans, but even with a blown fuse you should still have a forward and reverse gear. what's the mileage on your rig and when was the last...

iirc the MAP and BARO sensors are the same only one reads manifold pressure the other reads atmospheric pressure. boost is calculated from the two. you can swap the two sensors and see if the bad signal reading follows on your scanner you should see both sensors data along with a...

A couple of these bad boys lol simplistic!

What about a couple of adjustable thermostatic switches like used back in the old days. just a simple thermo-couple that would stick into the rad fins that goes to a mechanical temp control with no electronics, just some contacts. put those in a small sealed box and run wires to the harness...

I believe it should be a direct swap. just check the spring and shock perch placements on both to verify. the yolk might use a different size u-joint, but the conversions should be readily available too.

If you want that to be automatic, you could use a Hayden fan controller on those two trigger leads. adjust it to the temp you want and leave it.

Yup. that is the theroy. just keep in mind what the solar wattage is and dont go over that on the inverter with the block heater and charger so you will never drain the battery pack.

for the orifice on the pump, I have done it before and it worked better than before but still not like the factory one. iirc take an 11/64th drill bit and ream out the orifice in the back of the pump. the orifice is the large nut where you connect the hose to. it should un-thread with a 1"...

I believe it's the L terminal on the alternator pigtail but don't quote me on that! the tach reads RPM from the pulses on the field winding as the alternator spins. having both wired as 1 would effectively send a doubled pulse signal to the tach. I would take an ohm meter and probe the...

the higher RPM sometimes can allow one to push more amperage. something I was always told when running dual alts that each having their own built in regulators. iirc for them to work properly they would need diode isolators. I don't recall all the details though

That's what happens when your so used to driving bigger rigs LOL we forget how fragile the little ones are!

If only a 6.5 could be fitted and kept hidden under that hood! LOL

are both alternators using the same size pulleys? if not, I know one will be controlling the tach, but the alternators would be fighting each other trying to charge the batteries and run the electric system if they are spinning at different speeds.

Yup 5w50 Rotella T6 year round. and if needed get you a 300+ watt solar panel to mount on the roof with a battery pack in the back. run that to a block heater. that is something I was thinking about for mine. having a block heater on a thermostat along with a battery tender running off...

Sounds like fine made chineesium parts. I know there expensive, but I would try looking for made in USA Delco units. if there is room, try relocating them to a inner fender away from all the heat too.

Check with your local gobment. in my county we can do anything mainly because they eliminated state inspections, but and that's a big butt. the next county over to us are required to do emission testing yearly. it all depends on where you live. as far as the delete, i would leave everything...

on a lot of vehicles the drinkers side bottoms are interchangeable with the captains side. I did this swap on my ram 1500. on the next replacement you might get away with that if you can't find a decent drivers seat.

Sounds like the gooseneck ball is worn down. if they are used heavily they need to be checked for wear same as is done with the big rigs trailer kingpin and latches in the 5th wheel.

for a quick fix, that where you say is leaking is the fuel heater. it will unscrew from the housing, should have a black plastic ring that unscrews, there will be an o-ring in there that you can replace to stop the leak.