Search results

I had just done a Intake manifold swap and had to remove the horn after about 100 miles to make access to coolant crossover, and I noticed its already got oil in it. There was also a puddle oil in the rubber boot from turbo to horn. I checked My CDR over the summer and it passed the water...

I had to replace mine...and the fuel at idle on mine is 4.5mm3 The Truck is running great and more pedal responsive......Is it ok not to be at 9mm3? Will less fuel at idle damage anything....my thought is less fuel consumption and less chance of fuel washing the cylinder walls down at long...

.....but you have to use "6.5 program chip" in the ebay search field

Rockauto code good until Dec. 26, 2010 24695892054629

I would like to know before I would order this kit If there would be room for a JIC T fitting on the front of the manifold before the IP? ...and would I be able to do this (add a T) with the Manifold still on? I am eventually going to need to read the Fuel Pressure once I get my Gauges.

I had A friend weld a grade 8.8 m16 - 1.5 x 35mm I got from McMaster-Carr for $1.90 was enough thread to get the job done....the other side is just any old bolt to pull the HB on. Got the Idea from the bottom of this page http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/fluidampr.htm

Newer Grey PMD uses A Different pin-out or connector...If I rember Correctly....which is taken care of with the extension cable... ...which would explain why it wouldn't start...

Or the HB isnt to spec...or your superman with the engine in the truck. I would suspect the HB before the crank unless you see obvious signs of wear....oh and there was a key in there.......

Except my system was still in working order from factory...had never been tampered with....Would cost more to vacuum system and recharge.

I just put a new Fluidampr on mine over the weekend. I changed mine out for the same reason...The Wobble. I had to get someone to weld 2 bolts together for the installer tool since as pointed out the threads are uncommon in most puller sets (even the loaner from autozone). I purchased the bolt...

Well Yesterday I Finally got a New Clutch Assembly (with the bearings, magnet, and pulley). It came with Lifetime warranty from Napa for $116 (shop cost). It all came off easy enough with the right Pullers (Compressor still in truck)....but kinda sucked getting new Magnet and pulley on with...

Wouldnt it be 256:1 ratio for 1/2 oz per gallon( 128oz per gallon x.5)?

I run 1/2 oz per Gallon....Fairly easy to figure out with a graduated measuring device (as I'm also adding PS at rate of 1oz per 3 gallons) Also keeps the math simple for 20 gallons I add 10oz (20/2=10)...or just figure the number your looking for is half of the gallons of fuel you put in...

Here are some more close-ups CLICK TO ENLARGE and those VEGTABLE PLANTS are Bhut Jolokia, Trinidad Scorpion, and Chocolate Bhut Jolokia in the background IN CASE YOUR WONDERING! The Hottest Peppers in the world.... .

I can email you some better higher quality pics or you can click on my attachment in the 1st post (the side with the 25 mark on the capacitor goes straight up and down with one end of the capacitor laying on it). ....So were on the same page, my response i was just talking about the...

Aw heck...I type to slow.... Buddy beat me to the post (already comming up with a fix)... The resistor or 1RO is on the A terminal ( I believe it was Grey at one time). No continuity to the D or white wire....just in series on that Grey wire then capacitor, then off to OS

Yes....that seems to be the million dollar question...oh heck, $85 Plus shipping from a vendor.:biggrin: It would be nice to have a Homemade, or DIY solution on these forums..... I haven't seen it anywhere else, OTHER THAN what most people seem to get away with ....just removing it. But...

Okay got to thinking....maybe thats not stamped IRO but 1RO (one RO)...makes sense only 1 ohm resistance. Or is that 1 Resistance Ohm....I dont know.

Okay I checked it with my ohm meter on the 2000k (highest) scale here are my findings... My Digital display climbs up until it hits the 2000k At any point I stop.... lets say 600 on the meter...and then i go back and resume It starts at the number I left off at. If I short the pins out...

The colors are really faded on those wires...but traced out to the plug....the top left (above the 22- in the pic) goes to A. the other lead ( above the -25)goes to D. After reading various threads about the filter...I had never really seen one gutted....so here it is....I thought some may be...