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Andy which link do you need? I just tried both and they both worked for me. let me know and I will repost if necessary post again. Bob

I guess it would depend on how bad the HG is. A couple minutes should be plenty, but before engine heats up enough to open T Stat. You might also get bubbles in overflow tank when engine running with bad HG. That coupler is infamous for leaking, hear is a Thread/Poll on removal/replacement...

Head gasket is possible, check the upper Rad hose after starting cold. If it gets hard quickly a sign the HG is bad. Seeing as it is new to you I would change the Fuel filter first and then proceed with the check list and definitely start with the lift pump check. I have had PMD problems in...

Well I had had a look on this site and did not find anything...but "search" isn't always my best friend. Better safe than sorry. Cheers

Sorry I provided a link in a PM that I was not sure was appropriate (or allowed) to post here, but was a good DIY from some where else.

You're welcome

PM sent

I have had the push button on some previous vehicles and they work quite well. The only parts I have had to replace are the push button selector itself (cheap and very easy to change) and the actuator on the front diff. Mine being a 95 has the thermo actuator which are slow to apply and tend...

The tap usually taps into the hot side if the circuit (fuse contact leg), can either be switched power or unswitched power. The accessory that you are adding should be fused inline to the proper sized fuse, check the documentation that came with it.

Heath customer service second to none I have just finished a week of testing with a replacement and zero stalling so far. I still had stalling after doing Fuel filter, reseating many electrical connections and cleaning all grounds (and applying a conductive grease) I second the part about...

thanks guys and gal I thinks I will just run the extra ground. What was GM thinking when they put it there!!!!! Some day I will clean it just ... because it is there.

I was thinking of running another wire that was more easily servicable, but was wondering if the original spot was there for a reason. Maybe under the dash there is a common ground block there or something and is important for ECM correct operation. Does any body know for sure???

I set out to do the grounds on my truck tonight and got all done except for the beotch under the heater hose connections on the fire wall. Does the passenger side wheel well have to come out or can it be accessed from underneath? :mad2:

I am watching this thread closely as I too have a Heath unit which just started crapping out. It seems when cold it will shut down up to 5 times now, but once warmed up it seems to be alright, although I wouldn't trust it. My Heath PMD is just over three years old. I have a Heath LP too...

And if you have rear drum brakes I would checked that they are not thrashed!!!!!

Glass shop can do them too. The glue is resistant to UV rays. If there is residue, a razor may clean it off.

Have you checked both sides? I have seen both primaries put on one side and both secondaries put on the other side. Primaries are usually made of a bit softer (shorter/thinner) material to grab the drum and throw the secondary shoe into the drum which is harder (longer/thicker) material, to do...

Ya sure... there was nothing wrong with it you just wanted the wife to hold it up with her feet again!):h):h):h

Remember to loosen and tighten the bolts for the shaft alternately until loosened or tightened as some valves are open and some closed. Don't want to bend the shaft!:smile5:

'before I launch into removing the dash for the evaporator and heater core replacement." May the force be with you, never was my favourite job!