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You will love the LMM! I own an LMM and my dad owns an LBZ. His feels a little quicker than mine (reg cab compared to my ext. cab) but I love my interior and exterior looks much better than his LBZ. Only downside to the LMM is the lint catching seats, thin sheet metal, and creaking...

If it doesn't run on ether, the timing is out of whack or there is not enough compression to cause ignition.... Injectors have nothing to do with the engine not firing on ether....

Coolant temp sensor is located in the coolant crossover tube that runs from the front of the right head to the front of the left hood. Follow the upper rad hose....it connects to the crossover. The sensor is more towards the passenger side on the tube...

With the aldl cable plugged in, you have to go to the device manager and make sure the right driver is installed. You can find the correct driver on ENGH's website.

Need to ensure that stepper motor is working properly....watch the stepper as someone revs the engine up and down....

Yep...gonna be cold...calling for -50*C here tonight with the windchill.....trucks are plugged in...

TD - it is not even firing on ether.....sounds like more of a timing or compression issue....no?

Ignorance must be bliss.... I'll behave now....:thumbsup:

The element on the Case 930 in the yard is turned on via a relay (like a Ford starter relay). That relay is connected to a switch on the dash. My Case 1370 does not have one - just an ether button - your 2090 will be the same (we used to own one many years ago).

If it is not even firing on ether (with glows disabled) then the problem is in the physical timing.... Compression check out ok? Worry about getting it to fire on the ether and then go from there.... Obviously you know to keep the glow plugs completely disabled while testing this out..

The only thing that controls those elements are the brains in the operator.... Note my location...I have driven (and owned) many 300 000 km+ 6.5 diesels....none of them had an intake heater....(the last one I owned was going to get one this winter but things went in a different direction)...

You wouldn't want to run it all the time...just for initial start up....

Here is a link to what the heater looks like....drill, tap, thread in, and hit with 12 volts... http://www.wengers.com/parts/Farm-Tractor-Parts/Case/1070/Air-Intake/Sub/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-HEATER/01-A37775.htm

Didn't see that post of yours..... I just speak from experience with DP's new 'mods'....if you can call them that...

I had everything to do it...I was going to use an intake heater off of a late 60's Case farm tractor... Just need to thread it into the intake and hit it with a 12 volt relay...simple...

Who told you about this site? How did you get in without the secret handshake? Sheesh.... lol... This site isn't run by 'kids without a clue'...you'll enjoy it here much better.

Will it happen to an original motor - yes it can...but it might not. My crystal ball is not working today, so I can't tell you how long yours will last... I have had everything from headgaskets blowing out to blocks cracking to absolute catastrophic failure. Some of the engines were...

Whoever you talked to is wrong.....wasn't Lyndon was it?

Try jumping the wiring harness for the coolant temp sensor and see if that allows the idle to drop...

Jump the connector for the CTS with a paperclip...this will allow you to do the timeset...