I have 295/75/16 BFGs on PYO wheels on my truck with just a couple cranks on the factory torsion bar keys and some trimming of the inner fender. I do have a buckstop front bumber though, so a stock bumper might need trimming as well. Aftermarket front wheel might also cause an issue as well...
I've heard of turbo bearings being ruined by shutting a motor down from high RPM without letting it idle for a few seconds first. The oil pump stops when the motor shuts down, and the oil pressure goes to zero almost instantly. If the turbo was spinning at really high RPM then it could coast...
I've always run Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 in mine. I only drive it in the summer and change the oil on an annual basis, so the extra cost of synthetic is not justified to me.
One thing I've learned here in the rust belt is that road salt and rear disk brakes generally don't mix. If the slides are rusting up from the salt spray, then I'm betting that is your problem. Might want to wire brush or sand all the slides down real good and apply a good coat of high temp...
The truck will have a glow plug indicator light in the dash. Just turn the key to on, and wait for the light to go out before cranking. How long that takes depends on how cold it is. I only drive my truck in the warmer part of the year, so for me the wait is only one or two seconds.
Anti-freeze is not nearly as good as water for transferring heat, so your engine will tend to run hotter if there is not enough water in the mixture. If the seal leak is related to the temperature of the coolant, then I could see where this could make the leak worse.
I'll second the Toyota Hilux. From what I've heard they are darn near indestructible, and I bet there are lots of narrow roads in PNG that would not be friendly to a full size truck.
I don't know for sure, but I strongly suspect, that the compression ratio was lowered to pass stricter emissions rules. The most effective way to lower NOx emissions is to lower the combustion temperature. A lower compression ratio would give you that. The EGR circuit also helps lower the...
I'd get the lever case over the push button myself. My winter truck is an '08 Colorado, which is only available with the push button case. Mine is having some shifting issues now that I have not had time to investigate yet. I've never had an issue with a lever type transfer case.
Depends on how hot a tune you want to run. The LBZ has some strengthened internals that might be of value if you want to really turn up the wick. I run a Diablo Sport Predator set at 85Hp on my LLY without any issues so far. The LLY will get a bit better mileage than the LBZ due to higher...
If you plan on tuning the engine to the moon, those things might be important. For a stock or reasonable performance tune, I doubt those changes would have any significant impact on reliability. Like I said, the LBZ would be my second choice. The better mileage of the early LLY is more...
I get around 17 MPG back and forth to work with my LLY, which is mostly 45-50 MPH and a few stop and go intersections. On the highway it will do around 21-22 MPG at 70 MPH. These are summer driving numbers, if I drove it in the winter I'm sure the numbers would be lower. This is with a...
I believe that the 04.5 to 05 LLY Dmax trucks get slightly better mileage than the LBZ trucks do, everything else being equal. GM lowered the compression ratio on the LBZ and very late LLY engines. Some LLY trucks have shown a tendency to overheat if pushed really hard though.