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Sounds like you got the right bolts. I'd wait to retorque them until you have exhausted attempts to locate the source of the leak. So by "bubbles of water", you mean beads of (green?) coolant sitting on top of the residual oil by the headbolts? That's a fair amount of water if so, and I'd...

I'm trying to think how you'd end up with a lot of coolant pooled under the valve covers. I can only think of two ways... either coming up from the water jacket around a leaking bolt, or condensation after being steamed out of the crankcase. [EDIT: Or a cracked head... ouch.] After my...

Exactly what I needed to know, thanks guys. It's interesting... the pulley from the '85 is definitely not rubberized, and I guess the dealership didn't upgrade it when they installed the crate motor in '99. How do you determine whether a rubberized pulley has reached the end of it's service...

Tim will likely get my business for new injectors, unless someone undercuts his price of roughly $300 w no core exch. In other news, can anyone tell me whether the rubberized crank pulley was only implemented on serpentine drive setups, or did that start earlier with the v-belt models?

PIA = PITA = Pain In The A** = :cuss: Correct me if I'm wrong here, but since the original prob was oil in the radiator, seems unlikely that oil would be seeping through the head bolt threads and contaminating the coolant, more likely the other way around, no? And since now he's got more...

No, I think you're absolutely right. The 4911 was solely an early 6.5TD pump, AFAIK. No idea how it got slapped onto the 6.2 in my Sub. My best guess is that it was a reman exchange unit that came as part of the overhaul I had done, in exchange for the original pump. Probably the one stroke...

Got the word from the diesel injection shop today. My DB2 4911 pump is in good shape, no apparent damage from the fire. Hydraulic head doesn't need updating (hot start fix), so it's a $600 rebuild. I'm wondering what needs rebuilding since the pump is only a year old since it's last rebuild...

Another thought... Hate to say it, but except for your impression that the noise is coming from the engine oil pan area, your description matches what happened to mine just before the transfer case gave up. Have you checked the oil in your t-case recently?

True enough... aside from the time it takes to put everything together correctly, get it installed, running, and tuned. Only to do it all over again if (when) it fails. Might be a good candidate for some block cement before the epoxy as long as you're at it... might reduce the stresses on...

Glad to hear you're moving on this again. Can't wait to see the post that says you just fired it up! Out of curiosity, did you happen to take any measurements on how much the girdle would have to be modified in order to allow the stock pan to fit? Do you think the whole forward part of the...

I'd say if you're anywhere near Columbus, go check it out. Hard to tell from the pix, but it's definitely an NA Hummer motor. Only thing that troubles me is that I can't see the oil drainback tube just below the bellhousing flange. Could be an older 506 block, which I sure wouldn't be anxious...

I'd guess it would be best to order whatever hardness material you want to end up with, and just adjust your cutting speed as req'd to accomodate the pliability of the material. You can usually get it "hard", "half-hard", & "dead soft" without any special ordering. Possibly some other...

Dual Tank Safety Considerations Does this hold true for the old factory dual saddle tanks setup as well?

At what dealership on earth was a Deutz swap an option in 1976 ???? (Because I'm thinking I should give them some business, just out of respect.)

Copper Unfortunately, no matter how well you clamp the work, you're still going to get a fair amount of flash/burr on the edges of the copper sheet, especially if you use a jigsaw. The copper is usually just too soft to avoid some deformation in the process of cutting it. Less so if you...

Hmmm... $166/set with no core return or chg. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=e11010.m204&item=160410319061&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D8&sspagename=ADME:B:WNA:US:1348#ht_500wt_1084 Sure sounds good on paper... maybe I'll give...

Really great feedback Thanks Dave. Pretty sure that the 1990 3/4t J-code 6.2NA Sub's open plenum intake was OE. That thing was rock stock under the hood from what I could tell. Sure wish I understood which manifolds were used where and when by GM.

My shop was just quoting the factory spec. They don't even offer remans due to their shop labor rate of $120/hr. I'm sure they'd be happy to reset and balance to as tight a spec as I'd like... for a price. (ie: way more than I'd like to spend.) Thanks for the details on the Marine pop...

Hmm. My diesel injection shop looked up the factory spec for the 6.5TD and quoted 21xx to 2250 psi. Thought I recently read elsewhere that marine injectors were up around 2700 - 2800.

Here's your answer. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320530034050#ht_500wt_1084 At least $6750 ea.