Search results

The Banks turbo is a Garrett T04b. You could prob look up the dimensions for the flange online. I have mine off and could take pix and measurements for you if needed. Pix of the downpipe and manifolds coming up... ^ Downpipe in very close to installed position. Moves up only slightly...

Hm, Banks downpipe clears the frame on the inside nicely in the '85 Sub 4x4 , which has a susp lift but no body lift. Happy to take some pics for you if you like... Those Bosch turbo inj's from eBay are NOS stuff from a military supplier that went belly up. Just bought a set for under $250...

Best advice I could give you is to get the truck up and running with the stock system, then see how it does before upgrading. Chances are good that without a turbo and with a good clean radiator and fan clutch, you'll do just fine. Even on the hills. Unless you plan to start towing... and...

Thanks for the corrections, Aces... I said fine thread when I meant coarse. Glad you caught it. Am I imagining that I read something about some military IPs being 24v? I coulda sworn... You sure the TH700r4 needs vacuum? I thought they just needed the ultimate-cable-that-does-it...

Vac pump goes where the distributor would be on a gasser. Provides vacuum for your A/C, transmission modulator, and... something else that escapes me at the moment. You should just be able to drop in the one that was on your old motor if it's missing from the new one. (Which I think it will...

You'll need to use your old injection pump, and/or have it rebuilt (or at least checked out). I'm pretty sure the military version is 24v unit. If you do get a pump with the new motor, you can probably unload it on steel soldiers (another forum for CUCV owners) and make a few bucks back...

Tested takeouts, not remans. Here's the other company I was trying to think of: http://americansurplussalvage.com/DIESEL_ENGINES.html Also, pretty sure it's War Wagon who bought a motor from Boyce. As I recall, he had nothing negative to say about the experience.

New torque-to-yield head bolts from Fel-Pro run about $60. ARP studs run around $160 from CNC or Northern. In the overall scheme of things, seems like a cheap investment to me... the studs are reusuable, bolts are not (one use only). If you reuse the studs twice, you've recovered your money...

Which makes perfect sense... Liquid:liquid heat transfer is more efficient than liquid:air, so might as well take advantage of the available capacity of the radiator first, then on to the less efficient liquid:air auxiliary trans cooler.

Most shops will pop test them cheap or free. It's reshimming them if needed that gets spendy. Hearing that all 8 of the India Bosch units came in at 2200 sure makes that deal tempting. Any idea what the spread (+/-) was on those, Don?

Here's one approach: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=291 (Pretty sure there's no competitive product from any site sponsors, correct me if I'm wrong.) I don't see a set listed for the 4L80E, or any of the diesel applications for that matter. Gassers...

If it's actually a 6.5 (as opposed to a 6.2), then it was a turbo motor in 1993. Head castings for all the turbo 6.5's ended in 567, iirc. Not sure if the NA motors used the same # or not. The head casting number is found on a small pad just behind the #3 injector, and just in front of the...

Stellite is also the material used for most cyl head valve seat inserts. Used pretty extensively for valve seats of all sorts... including ultra-high vacuum valves, where heat tolerance is less an issue than reliability.

Given the white smoke (BIG clue), I'd consider borrowing another diesel truck to jump yours with, and doing a compression check. You have a leak between the cooling system and the combustion chambers. Could be cracked heads, leaking head gaskets, cracked block, or...? Also wondering if...

Looking forward to hearing how well this holds temp under heavy towing load/mountains/hot weather/etc. I recall reading that some here feel that the electric fans can't keep up with the thermal load under stress.

):h BTW, CNC guy is away for the weekend, will ask about cutting copper HG's for you on Mon or Tues.

Did you check it RIGHT when you got home? When it was still overheated? If so, then it's a coolant to crankcase leak, not coolant to oil galleys/lifter bores/etc. Was it blowing any white smoke out the exhaust when it overheated? If so, prob a HG. If not, then possibly a seal elsewhere...

I've used short pieces of round stock (of correct diameter) with the worm clamps. Works like a charm. Just cinch them down tight, and go easy with the pressure, turn it up in 5 psi increments, chances are that 30 - 40 psi will get you the result you're looking for... a hissing sound. 15 - 20...

Cu mat'l Just so happens I have some leftover 0.040" cold rolled 99.9% Cu sheet, ASTM 8370 & B152-97a. Should have more than enough for two gaskets. If you want it, it's yours for the cost of shipping from California. I could check into whether the guy in my building could cut the HG...

Yep, copper end up at the rocker arms. Don't rule out a crack in the head between a cooling passage and the rocker galley. Though cracking both heads sure seems unlikely. Leaks in both heads past the bolts seems unlikely too, given that he used new bolts with the pre-coated thread and...