We call it farm fuel but it is really called off road fuel.
In Brooklyn it is probably called constrution site fuel. Contact your local mob boss. Thay can hook you up.
Don't do it!! I mean don't f-ing do it!!
Does it work? Hell yes it does. I ran it in my 6.2 for like 2 yrs. I went from 20 mpg to 22 mpg and alot more get up and go.
I had to stop using when it ate the galvinized coating out of the tank. A friend of mine had it eat the glue between the...
American Chopper should not be on the list. It has nothing to do with DIY its a soap opera.
I don't care if it's the old "Trucks" or "Gears". Stacy David is the only host that does his own work. When they do time laps on him it is only him doing the work. Plus I find his "Quick tips" very useful.
Been there done that.
Just like you the best way I found to get running again was to add more fuel.
When mine died I knew not to just try and start it again or I would just run the batterys down. I had some fuel that was setting in a 5 gallon can in the back of the truck. I just dumped some PS...
Have you thought of putting a awning on the Nomad?
Some RV shops have spring specials were they place one big order to save on shipping. I got a 20' awning for my camper for like $425 that way.
Ya and gassers have a butter fly valve and diesels don't. That is why they have to have BOV. But the BOV has nothing to do with spool time.
The more open exaust will make it spool faster. But can it cause it over boost the engine? (raise it to the danger level)
I know my gasser turbo system...
I'm sorry I thought that was a universal term. On my Mitsubishi if I have the boost controler set at 14 psi. If the exaust is open up to a more free flowing system. That same 14 psi setting would now be as high as 18 psi. Caused by the lack of back pressure in the exaust system. Do I not have to...
Well last tank I gave it a good dose of Lucas injector cleaner. I feel it did some good. This tank I started it on a diet of Howels. I hope to see some improvement as I'm also keeping her under the 2k mark. My daily drive is 40 miles round trip with only 20 of it highway.
I'm also looking into...
Sounds easy enough just pull the #5 out and put in a #9. Seeing how my PMD is on a heat sink already should be a piece of cake. Just dont understand how adding more fuel would help my mpg. But if it dont I can always switch back.
Thanks for the how to on this. I figured sombody would have done...
Is there a DIY sticky on the #9 resistor mod? I have been searching for one and can not find it. If there is one can somebody give me a link please? I dont like to be spoon fed information but I'm at my wits end trying to find this.
I would like to see what it is and what it does. If it would...
Well if thats the case I will pull the vac line off the WG. The vaccum pump was bad when I got it and the PO said it got 21 mpg. But he was figuring it with the speedo 5 mph fast. :skep:
I just ran my first full tank of fuel threw this truck. Not to happy with 16.5 mpg.
My 6.2 was 20 mpg almost every day. From what I have read that is about the norm for this truck. It just sucks that both trucks only go 450 miles on a full tank. Just this one takes 10 more gallons to fill it...
I'm pretty sure you would have to turn both wheels at the same time to do that.
If its not a pos track you turn one wheel and the other would just turn the opposite direction with out turning the drive shaft.
It don't sound to good to me. I would bet a hour of having it on your batterys would be dead.
If you want a oil heater get the one that plugs into ac outlet.
As for block heaters the ones that has the pump built in are great. With one of those you get in turn the key on and hot air blows in...
Well got the pulley changed. Got the rpm's were they should be. But according to this site.
http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html
1750 rpm, 29" tire, .73 OD, and my GPS showing 55 mph = 3.70 rear end.
1750 rpm, 29" tire, .73 OD, and speedo showing 60mph = 3.43 rear end...