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Well the passenger door is harder to close but sags less, and the driver door sags more but closes easier. Go figure. This morning I cleaned the latches up a bit with brake cleaner and then sprayed them with graphite lube, operated them with a screwdriver a bunch of times, re-sprayed, wiped...

Thanks, I'm going to give it a try.

My driver door closes hard, but basically operates OK. The passenger door needs a shoulder in the side to open it from the inside, and a very hard slam to close it completely. Will the pins and bushings correct that, or is there more alignment that is needed?

Just because he's big doesn't mean he can troubleshoot diesels! :)

I know people try to keep costs down, but I went with the electric gauge on my pillar pod, cost quite a bit more but I decided I didn't want the fuel line in the cab, and running through the firewall. It definitely pulsates with my walbro, but interesting to watch the pressure under different...

Right, I know from experience unfortunately. One out, hardly notice, two out, bit of smoke and sputter, three out, crank, nice smoke show and cough and rock back and forth while waiting for some cylinder heat. Drago, glad to hear it was an easy fix! Nice when these start right up!

I'm guessing it was reasonably warm in VA when you tried to start it. I'd expect it to start even with 3 glows not working, would take some extra cranking and then sputter and cough up smoke until those cylinders heat up enough to fire. Since it wouldn't start are you sure you've got power to...

Going back to a few pages ago when you mentioned sending out the cam. Where do you expect the gains to be on the new cam grind? Low end torque for towing, or max power at higher rpm, or across the board?

Floyd, if you think your cables aren't the greatest, then they likely are actually worse than you think they are. The stock cables are undersized, the stock side mount battery connectors suck. You don't have to convert to top post when you get new cables, just use the stud method on the side...

I've run the same mix for years now in multiple trucks. I mix 8 oz. of Power Service (white bottle in winter, grey bottle the rest of the year) plus 16 oz. TCW3 2-Stroke oil with every fill-up. Those amounts are calibrated for 25 gallons, but I don't worry if I'm only putting in 19 or filling...

I always buy good quality cords, they are pricey but worth it. 12 gauge if 100 ft., 14 gauge for 50 ft.

With your dual 1,000 watt block heaters, do you have to plug them into separate 110v circuits? Or can they both go on one without tripping the breaker? Glad your no-start was an easy fix.

It's a 6.5.

I don't have a tuner. I did check some time ago with GPS, then got one of those bluetooth OBDII plugs so I could see speed on my phone. The OBDII speed reading matches the GPS speed, while the speedo reads much higher.

No, I don't plan to. It's only about a 4% difference in circumference. My truck since I've had it has a speedo error issue anyway, though when I read speed through the OBDII it reads out correctly so I think my odometer has been accurate. The speedo has read about 22% higher than actual...

And I guess I should have mentioned, I'm starting out with 60 psi front, 65 psi rear, will see how that feels.

New tires! Replaced the worn out 245's with 265/75-16's.

Tanner, how low on the SRW? I'm curious if anyone else runs lower than 55 psi, I'd never run across that before. I won't run lower, but curious anyway.

I run 70 psi all around when towing, 75-80 in the front when plowing, with some weight in the bed for balance. The E's are as far as I know all rated for 80 psi max cold pressure, and you can run them there with no issues and the ride isn't as harsh as you might expect.

Not meaning to argue, I'm far from a tire expert. But I've run E rated on standard steel rims, PYO's, dually's, and have never seen them run below 55 psi without squatting. I think you'll do sidewall damage over time running them that low. Maybe someone else will chime in with an opinion on this.