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On the 1993 gmc I had, in the fuse panel, it showed two fuses, one was ECM 1 and the other ECM 2. IIRC the 2 was for the in tank fuel pump, being it was a 5.7, 350 gas engine. Upon finding which fuse powers the ECM and pulling that fues it should cut the draw some and if it does cut it some then...

I do believe that there is some sort of a signal from the alternator on a single alternator system that triggers the tachometer into thinking its reading actual engine RPMs. The pulleys from the 6.5 alternator has to be exchanged with a store bought alternator or else the tach will read faster...

I’ll try to remember to watch the tach when I start my truck in the morning. I do know that it shows the cranking speed of the engine when the ALDL connector is installed and active to the AUTEL app on my phone.

Thats the stuff. T-6 in 5-W40.

With an alternator setup like that You could convert that truck to a back to the future unit. 🫣😹😹😹

I run 5-W40 year round. 15-W40 had been run for many years. It was the oil that was available. Many diesel engines run 250,000 plus miles on that old dino oil. After the 5-W40 came out I made a call to Shell about the spread between the numbers being over 25. I was told by One of their...

I had a heavy duty 22 foot bumper pull trailer, tandem axle, IDR what the weight specs was but 14,000# sticks in my head. That trailer had two removable crank down trailer jacks at the back end. One time I was unloading an international Harvester model M tractor, driving it down the ramps, next...

Yeah, my sone kept all of the smog stuff offa his Dodge. He leaves it setting on the concrete slab in front of his garage bay doors. No one home all day, no security system, anyone could drive off with that. I know nothing about that smog equipment or how valuable those catalytic convertors are...

Thats just what he posted towards the beginning of the thread.

1982 Chevy LUV 4 cyl diesel.

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Oh yeah, and another thing added to My fuel system, the feed the beast new FFM housing. Now the fuel hoses to and from the FFM is all 3/8ths”.

Fairly common for those hoses to rupture and leak too. Leroy Diesel does sell O-Ring/seal kits for the FFM. He also sells the feed the beast kits that can be installed onto Your FFM. I built a bracket for the FFM on My truck. Brought the hose nipples above the intake manifold and turned it 90*...

Oh yeah, My other son here did the delete You are referring to on His 2019’Dodge 3500 Cummins. He also deleted the EGR, done the 5” exhaust, did the aftermarket glow plug thing and installed some sort of a tuner device that I can never remember the name of. Oh Yeah He is happy. Now at the flick...

My son has a 2017 GM Duramax diesel. His piss water started showing signs of failure. He did the delete and now he dont have to keep buying that stuff. IDK what it may have done for performance but seemed in his talk that he was happy with the results.

Welcome to the forum Jamez.

Welcome to the forum Mr. Clopek. Intakes is not a bad job to get removed. If You could do some test fitting and then get an AN swivel fitting that has the port with 1/8th inch pipe threads, then, screw jnto that port a barb fitting, run out a remote hose and install another barb fitting into...

I love it. If I was there I’d get out my electronical etching device and start scratching them into the corncrete wall. Then color um in wit duh pencil. I wonder if that was close to caveman language ? ? ? ? 😹😹😹

Once that slave is shoved to the BH, on the ones I worked on , there is no adjustment. IIRC, there may have been a plug to inspect that the push rod engaged the bearing fork okay.

I like that tool. Biggest problem, hydraulic clutches give any way to adjust for free pedal.