Maybe help a nearly unnoticeable amount on the fuel economy from less friction while not engaged.
Looked into a rear rotor swap when I got the Burb as it needed a fair amount of brake work. The suspension / brake / tire mechanic recommended to stick with the drums due to more meat for stopping...
I recently took over a 20 year old vehicle from the parents which they bought new. The cabin filter was in the same condition. After a new filter, I no longer need the blower motor nearly as much as the vehicle's speed is enough to move air through the vents now that the old plugged filter is in...
Ok, phyne, drilled & slotted :p
Perhaps the effect is different in a truck. My mechanic decided to get fancy and replaced the solid rotors with drilled & slotted on my old Euro sedan (which weighed ~5K# and handled like a sports car) as he knew that I preferred not to cheap-out. Hated that move...
Easy: job security.
The idea fairies in the Government get to keep their jobs by creating new requirements for the engineers in industry to figure-out. And the engineers get to keep their jobs by fulfilling the idea fairies' requirements...
In theory though, if the engine was worked hard...
For that weight class of truck and if still looking to splurge, a set of Rancho adjustable's might fit the role.
While at it, if there is still an excuse, might consider getting solid rotors with cryo treatment. Slots and holes to me are just less meat to grab. Not bash-in, just say-in.
For that weight class of truck and if still looking to splurge, a set of Rancho adjustable's might fit the role.
While at it, if there is still an excuse, might consider getting solid rotors with cryo treatment. Slots and holes to me are just less meat to grab.
Realized that I know somebody with the GMC variant that falls within this issue. That truck is an electronics nightmare. I drove it for a 1,000 mile road trip (I was the sole driver) for a delivery and was completely unimpressed with the nannies and disabled them as they were either a nuisance...
It's kind of interesting that a Japanese company has now gotten bitten on lax engineering standards multiple times across its product lines. Bit from floor mats that captured the throttle and caused a few deaths when the software would not allow the brakes system to override the engine...
My vote is go new. Caveat is that the source has to produce known good units. Not bashing any of the outstanding rebuilders, but will once again offer that I have gotten bit by even the good ones. New (known good) has yet to let me down.
Check with Leroy as his site still lists new injectors...
Presuming this is not an EPA troll, take a look at the VW 2.0 TDI platform. It will not throw you back in the seat much, but it is durable (once correcting the intercooler), cornering is fun, rowing the gears is enjoyable, it gets good fuel economy, and can easily cruise at 90mph (where this is...
So, not going to bite on any of the fun options, eh?
Ok, how about we take the runner-up lazy route. Tell the neighbor's kid that you are a doomsday prepper and buried a USB drive with cryptocurrency under the tree and under each of the posts. Then grab a cool beverage and watch.
If there is high confidence that the stuff is from home fuel sources, perhaps consider getting a some of the "5KW" cko diesel parking heaters (don't waste paying more money for the "8KW" ones as I have yet to see where there is a physical difference between the units) and use them for engine...
Looks like the core questions were already answered.
The key is finding out the underlying chemistry of the specific home heating fuel. Regarding sulfur, chances are good that the content is ULSD as the home fuels are moving away from the old higher sulfur content as even in home use it causes...
Cannot tell which series of Ferd this is. If it had the 6.4, that engine is a time-bomb and works great until it doesn't. Some of the 6.7's suffer from the CP4 grenade and owners simply do not want to drop the $$$$ to prevent $$$$$ in repairs when it blows.
More common path is one of the inline...