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Your going to have to piece it as you go using parts from other vehicles, we can't give you a list of what's needed when various parts are going to be used like this.

You could just use the fitting that is on the pump and connect new hose to it...

The adjustable throw out bearing I use was the best thing ever, it gives instructions for the same measurement and no tool needed other than a straight edge and tape measure... I made a adjustable push rod at the petal that also worked great... Several folks here have done it and they told me...

I think you should make me one of those rings also for the ideas 😅

This stuff comes in a caulk tube, easy to place but hard to remove and you can squish it out like mashing a valve cover down .. I think the right stuff would work also... And I like what you're doing, I might copy it some day...

Might look into some of that windshield glue in a caulk tube and clamp it till it sets.. it's some really strong stuff... Lot of rod shops use it...

85-90 mph and you wonder why your not getting better milage... 😂

Are you talking about the clip that holds the petal push rod into the booster or? Maybe a pic would help us...

So you checked the Inter fender fit?

What is the one at the front of the fender made of? Looks plastic, how ya mounting it?

Mine was a p&p harness that replaced the stock harness that plugs into the firewall socket.

Sounds like something may be wrong... I have a "all on" headlight also, only it's not the cheap stuff some are selling now. Mine is a complete wiring harness with 2 relays that are connected to the battery not the light switch like OEM or some other harnesses. I can and have run all lights...

As a CDL driver with a few million miles if I wanted a real answer to that question I would consult the dot...

That's a tight bend off the turbo.. Might have been a good idea to move the turbo forward a bit..

So how is the down pipe mod coming?

Ya gonna wrap the manifolds ? That would really keep heat out of the engine bay...

Heat... Torch..

A junk yard... Any block will work, it doesn't need to look exactly like it..

Did you use a scanner to time it after installing the IP? You can't just install and go, it doesn't work that way .. Edit... I see you didn't replace the IP, might still be a good idea to plug in and see what is really going on.

Personally, I think you might need to except you have a 30+ year old motor, weak rings, slick cylinder walls, IP wore, among other things, until you go through the inside of the motor not much is going to change... Such is life...