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I don't think the races spun in there but will have to take a closer look. I'm still waiting to get the plow truck flopped for inspection and removal of the other unit. Really thinking about tear down for inspection, and resealing the replacement unit at a minimum. I will have a hard time using...

There is definitely some ring gear wear. The coating removal id say is normal for 200k miles, but the outside edges are chewed up a bit and not sure if the wobbly bearing caused that? Or the shrapnel it ate in the meantime.

More. So the races are free spinning as well! We can pull them out with our hands!

Hypothesis confirmed.

It's downstairs draining now. Lots of metallic sludge. No big chunks of iron. The fluid is definitely old. I can't remember if I have ever changed this myself, ive definitely topped it off. So it may be REALLY old.

Not the most fun project, but it's out. Of course winter decided to come back just in time for this. Of course had to remove the pitman arm, again. Totally roasted the rubber on it. Also had to remove the drivers tie rod. Wonder what the nomenclature is on the wobbly output.

It's definitely an option but I am guessing the oil is going to be super metallic from the failure. Won't know till it's out and apart. You are correct, there are some great rebuilds on the YouTube. I think I may be doing cv shaft seals too before the replacement goes in.

Breakthrough. A friend has an 05 Silverado 1500 plow truck that has a snapped rear frame section. Took a preliminary look tonight and it has a GU6 RPO code. Agreed on $150 if the unit is good. The truck is caving in so we are gonna flop it on its side for removal in the next week or so.

I went on RockAuto and compared a 2002 Silverado 4wd actuator to my 2005 Yukon XL 4wd actuator and they are both denoted as "square" plug with the same GM part #. That was my feeling on the carriers, they have to all be the same im sure with different casting numbers. The LKQ website was what...

Went digging for this place. Closest one is buffalo at about 3 hours. They dont have a 3.42 set, but the location in NJ and RI do. Prices range from $200 to $600 depending on mileage. Trying to see what shipping would be, guessing another $100. One thing I noticed is that their alternate...

I shopped around a lot. Looked at all local box stores. Looked into supposed red tops, that are now not as highly rates but cost a fortune. Also looked into blue tops. In the end I went with Lares from Rock Auto purely for the lifetime parts warranty. So far no regrets, but we are still early...

Been scouring locally for a replacement front differential. It's proved to be difficult finding one with 3.42 gears. Might end up going the down and dirty route at the local u-pull. Closest have found is 2 hrs, one I like better yet is 2.5 hrs.

Spent some time tonight getting the drivers hub bearing replaced. Had to order a dust shield. Apparently the P.O. didn't feel it necessary to reinstall. Ran into a time crunch and got it installed and all fluid filmed without a single picture. Greased all front end components. Also verified the...

Another assumption, when I am in 2wd nothing spins up front right? We have our trip to SC in 5 weeks. Wondering if replacement needs to be before this or it can wait till later this summer.

I also found the reason for my growl in 4wd. The drivers side front differential output to cv shaft bearing is roasted. The spindle is very loose going into the pumpkin. Anyone ever replaced these bearings? I assume it's from inside only? Most cost effective i assume is a complete swap out for...

Got the steering box swapped out today. Should have been a cake job but the pitman arm fought me. So hard to get a socket on it with the lower large grossmember and a-arm bracketry right in the perpendicular path. Ended up removing the box from the frame, then pulled the pitman arm.

Thanks for sharing this. Might be a low cost option. I've been looking at canned tuners, because I really don't want a full blown tune. Currently the controller works of a set of relays for that ground the trigger wires. One ground and the fans are on low. Ground the second one simultaneously...

Worst I have seen for trans temp was in the 190's while plowing a few driveways in a row. Normal for the Yukon cruising seems to be 150's. I usually plow in 4lo if there is any meaningful snow accumulation. I keep a close eye on temps knowing this isn't the optimum plow rig. I think if I could...

Per my visual inspection, it seems to be. The Yukon never overheated previously. I did get to some high temps with the plow on 228 IIRC is the highest i have ever seen. I believe this is more due to the late command of full cooling fans at 227 I believe.

I will try to! I did find why the original failed. It's definitely the rubber that deteriorated. You can see light around the sealing area.