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I feel like I might have better luck by just pulling the engine from the 93 and tearing it down trying to fix or patch it up rather than just prepping the 6.2. or at least I would have a go at it. don't have much to loose here I suppose... I looked up and found that it seems all of the top...

one other place that is prone to leak oil is the drain on the bottom of the turbo. look at it and follow it to where it goes into the engine. depending on how cruddy oily and greasy the engine is, you might be scrubbing and cleaning for a while. once good and clean, drive and inspect...

What I like to do before attacking oil leaks is to get some water base degreaser or some oven cleaner from the dollar store. spray everything down and let it soak in about 15 minutes. then get ready to wear all the grease HAHA. if you have a set of ramps put the front end up on them and use a...

Yep those are the oil cooler lines. looks like they are leaking at the crimps. also as AK said, your valve covers are leaking also. if you look at where your injectors are on the engine, that area all looks oil soaked. that would be coming from the valve covers.

iirc the pulley face should sit flush with the shaft.

I want to keep the 95 intact and driveable, though it needs some serious eyeballs on the front suspension/steering. There is a used 6.5 on marketplace that was supposedly pulled for a gasser swap they want $500 for not too far from me, don't know how long it will be listed, but chances are...

it does show some blow by but does not push oil near as bad as the 93 does. the cko provent would most likely capture all of the oil it does eject.

The engine in the 95 has been like that for as long as i can remember, never posed an issue going down the road. It otherwise runs fine. could be like you say just injection/compression issue. wouldn't a wearing rod gotten worse fairly quickly?

Na, don't know anyone with a dealer license that can bid at auctions. I have seen some on the car-parts site but those are online junkyards. some offer 30 and 60 day warranties but for the most part it's a risk as well.

If all the harness checks out, it's possible the TCM or PCM is not working correctly. I would try having it re-flashed first, maybe even if GM has an update for it. if you have access to a tech 2 scanner, you can do that yourself by paying GM for the license that iirc last 3-4 days allowing...

I guess I need to rephrase that question. What’s my best option for what I have to work with

Do you guys think the engine in the 95 is healthy enough to go long distances if I find out which rod is making noise? I'm sure I could replace bearings and it would be fine. only time I hear it is at higher rpm when parked. it's not loud at all but there. not unless that is sign of...

Well I suppose that confirms the 95 having a rod with clearance issues. If it can rev in park and a light knocking can be heard.

I will try tomorrow or the next to get the block casting numbers off the 93's engine. I know the block is from a 99 so I'm hoping it's one that would have a better chance of not having cracks.

I figure if I got this 6.2 ready, it will take me a while to do, but have it ready to go in for when things get worse for the 93, but if I want to even attempt to save (if that's even possible) the 93's engine, I could do the swap before it completely dies. things I would need to find is a...

I figured I better update this thread for this engine as I finally got around to doing a compression test. using a weak starter I had and mediocre batteries with my shop charger on boost I got some numbers. is was cranking slow but I kept cranking until the gauge stopped moving. #1 = 290...

My thoughts are on the current engine, if I could get my hands on assuming three replacement pistons and a set of rings. maybe a quick hone, it might bring it back to life and survive a good while. I don't know if this engine has any cracks, but the lower end sounds healthy at higher rpms...

Even went back and scoured my posts and found when I did the compression test on the 95's engine.

Here is the compression test I had done on t he 93' current engine which has some serious blowby. #1 = 380 #2 = 250 #3 = 260 #4 = 270 #5 = 330 #6 = 350 #7 = 350 #8 = 270 remember I found a GP with a broken off tip in the #8 and just guessing from the numbers it's chewed on tips in...

Well guys, despite the recent unfortunate events with the wife's car, I can't sit still... I'm back at the bull crap LOL I drug the 6.2 engine I have on the stand back out, connected a (weak) starter and ran some make shift cables to the batteries in my 95 truck and performed a compression...