put you a volt meter on the batteries and watch it during cranking. if it drops below 10 volts, the starter could also be drawing too much and shutting down electronics. computers and other electronics don't like less than 10v this can be your entire problem.
my 95 is obd1 but I use the GMTDscan on a laptop. I can't remember if it will disconnect when cranking. seems that those PCM's are slow to communicate on top of if the batteries are low or there is a ground connection issue in path to the PCM it can loose connection to the truck, scanner and...
I think soon as I can get the chance, I'm gonna pull that 6.2 back out where I can tinker with it, and run a compression test. even though it has a crack on the mains. this will determine if I try smearing some lipstick on it and try running it till I can do something.
get the 95 license...
is the 12+ line in the OBD connector loosing power during cranking? sounds like this might be the case. Can connect an alternate source of power to the scanner?
IDK the cost, but I would think that you could pull one from a JY and take it to the dealer or someone who can re-flash it with your trucks vin and programming. GM might actually have an update that would fix the issue.
Here's the jungle site with some with diodes built in.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=5+pin+relay+with+diode&rh=p_85%3A2470955011&dc&ds=v1%3AOX5Ozsb7gqOHv5tnx4%2FezTcI3P2LRGfwxD5jVTjIQaw&crid=AO04TPL4TUUJ&qid=1744117633&rnid=2470954011&sprefix=5+pin+relay+with+%2Caps%2C266&ref=sr_nr_p_85_1
keep in...
Not sure if it's dangerous or at least I haven't seen anything frame wise on it, but it sure does beg the question when every joint and rubber under there has been replaced, some three times over since covid days. I know the gear box has some slop, but it's not any worse than the 93 is. and...
as for a solenoid to "bypass" the GP controller for longer glow time overide. you can use any old fender mounted starter solenoid.
This one from Napa would work fine.
the two larger terminals would run to the large terminals on the GP controller and one wire from the small terminals to a...
If you don't want the LP to self prime with the key on when the WTS is on, you don't need to worry about the center pin 87a on the relay and it doesn't matter which pins (30/87) you use for the main battery power.
for relays that have a built in diode between 85 and 86, the relay only works...
Oh, your referring to the relay mod for the ops and LP for the standard relay not the factory GP controller. those relays don't care which is the power in or the device being powered (30/87), nor for which is ground and trigger (85/86) that is so long as the relay doesn't have a built in...
all 8 GP's together when powered will draw around 90 amps. a switch would not handle that kind of load. that's were the solenoid comes into play.
as for the 95 wired backwards to the 93. are you referring to the large terminals? if so, I don't think it matters which side had the power from...
Well just got home from work... bad news..
it's still tapping or knocking. accelerating on the entrance ramp to the freeway I could hear the tappy tap tap. a soon as I was able to let off the pedal I got back into it and the tap was gone. I assume it's a lifter or worse.
after going in...
I see Bison's post there but he doesn't mention if the engine is at idle or at a higher RPM.
Saturday while putting the truck back together I did notice a decent oil leak where the dipstick goes into the pan. not sure if there is a seal or o-ring that goes in there, but I might need to...
Drove to work today, didn't notice the noise this morning, but we also had a cool front move in too. the engine seems to be clattering louder. it ran fine though.
one other curiosity of mine is before when fully warm, sitting at at stop light the engine had a slight shake to it, not a miss...
I feel like if I did this test now, it would "blow bubbles" in the water in the bucket, but revved up It might draw some up slightly or be at the same level as the water in the bucket. now with the CDR tubing attached, It might actually draw some up the tubing, maybe.
Interesting. I wonder if this test is done with the CDR and tubing disconnected from the turbo so it can't pull anything from the turbo spooling up.
I know this old worn out engine when you first crank it up cold with all the CDR tubing off and the oil cap off, there is hardly any blow by at...
So I forgot to mention yesterday that after I got it running again. I had pulled the oil cap and removed the tube coming from the CDR and oil catch can so I could see how much blow by was evacuating from the engine.
after it has warmed up I revved it up pretty high and held it there. I...