well I stand corrected. I didn't realized they had made a electric version of it. it ran from 88-90. my guess is the 4l80E was the replacement in 91.
what year is the 4l80E?
here's the situation
I'm trying to charge a 12v nonspillable battery. currently it reads of 1.4V. I know there is a minimum voltage that the charger needs for the safety, but I can't remember what it is.
I know there is a way to charge a extra low battery with a good one hooked up parallel...
I just use the store brand(motomaster/canadian tire) hand cleaner. it's the cheapest and removes just about everything. you just gotta wash your hands again before you eat(trust me,it tastes awful). If I'm out dish soap it is.
we had rented a small garden plot( 10X 50ft) for the year. it came plowed already so just needed the hand tools to help work it. It was a good years for somethings but took alot of watering to keep it green.
beer for the most part,the darker the better. after a bad day, rum,scotch, vodka, all depends on what I can get my hands on. I stay away from that fruit flavored stuff. and American beer AKA water.
the tank sock is inside the fuel tank on the end of the pickup. the only way to access it is to drop the tank and removing the ring where the lines go into the tank. you can try blowing it off by running compressed air back down the main fuel line. you don't need alot of pressure to do it...
:welcome8: we're addictive around here
how much fuel is in the tank and how old is it?
when was the last fuel filter change?
any other symptoms, (black smoke,rough idle, missing,)?
don't worry, these engines are a breeze to work on. quirky but easy :D
the truck is just about always 1/4-1/2 on the gauge. it only gets filled up if I've got to go long distance. it hurts to fill it up:eek:. it works out to be about $200 to fill the tanks up(2X21gal) and I'm broke most of the time.
I need to reroute the exhaust setup on the truck. getting tired of the rattle of the pipe hitting the cab/firewall or where it goes over the frame. I was thinking of splitting it right after the turbo and running something about 2.5" duals?
I can't seem to find any real useful info on it...
I hate to break it to ya but you failed in the land yacht club.:rolleyes5:
I had to dig a bit for the tread.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?729-SRW-3500-club
not idea where the flatbed club's thread would even be.
why not run it to the drivers side? shorter run is the way I see it. there is a couple of wires for the HVAC setup, just for the blower setup.
if you want to eliminate the block connection, there is a multi wire connector that'll work. you'll have to use the 10-12 gauge version
you couldn't do it as a drop in. however it doesn't take a whole lot to make it work. all the parts between the 2 are interchangeable. the IP and lines have to be done as a set. if you take heads, intake, turbo and exhaust manifolds you can use them with the 6.2 block. IIRC you have to change...
not so much as stronger but the overall wheelbase is different. the crew cab is 163/164.3""(depending on where you look) compared to the 129.5 of the burb.
a good 6.2 should hit the 300K mile mark.
here's some good reading to help you evaluate your 6.2 before you get started...
do the crack check. it's easy to do now and can save a lot of extra work later. as far as the fit it was one of the options for the crew cab. there is no real size difference between the 6.2 and a 350 small block.
what transmission are you going to use? mostly just curious.
is the crew cab...