From another forum I was informed that since I have that "Battery" Light and a Voltmeter there's already enough resistance in the line;
"Don't fricken do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your asking for much bigger electrical problems changing resistance values in a lower voltage electrical circuit...
Well, I received the 5 pack of resistors and got that resistor soldered into the pigtail so it's all set to go. After fixing my fence this half saturday I may go ahead on the installation of the CS144.
I even worked a shift here with a kidney stone attach, a few years ago. I don't think my Disrtct boss understands that kind of dedication.
My best to Big Sky Country (I was raised in Missoula)
As I recall, the Gauge circuit (brown wire from CS130) ran 1.5-1.7 Volts I wonder if this is satisfactory minimal voltage not to fry the alternator with (or without) that resistor...
Since they're arriving Monday, I'll solder one into the circuit as a matter of course their cost was minimal so I figure may as well incorporate one.
I was hoping to minimize voltage drop by using the 2/0 gauge welding wire for the battery cables and oversized charge/fusible link wire, but over...
I wish I'd leanred of this conversion before I got a set of Glass Lensed composites,
while they're plenty bright with the LED bulbs, I found a fantastic resource for long lasting high wattage H4 bulbs Flösser GmbH & Co.KG when I ran Hella Vision + H4 housings on my van...
Hmmm. There's the Charging System Warning Light that comes on at startup...
but the brown wire from the alternator goes to "Gauges" as per the wiring diagram for both the 5.7L and the 7.4L, which I'm guessing is the Voltmeter on the other side of this Gauge/Indicator panel.
I've matched that...
That does seem the concensus to run it to the battery although I've read one compelling site madelectircal.com
with regard to running it the the highest current draw point as to a positive central junction location.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml
My first...
Itturns out that it IS the brown gauge wire had to get that 50 Ohm 1 Watt resistor for the "L" circuit, I just purchased 5 from Mouser.com, and after I complete this project, I'd be glad to share.
Edit. Just received a FedEx shipment of something I won't share, but if you can get it in your...
I got a line on that 50 Ohm 1 Watt resistor for the "L" circuit, I just purchased 5 from Mouser.com, and after I complete this project, I'd be glad to share.
Edit. Just received a FedEx shipment of something I won't share, but if you can get it in your area Finlandia Cranberry. 8th row barley...
Now to find an approapriate resistor online, BOTH Rat Shack stores closed in this area. A decade ago the primary one was managed by a former diesel electric submariner ~ he KNEW his stuff!
I went to a former Chevy line mechanic and I'm on the right track with the "L" being tied to the Gauges circuit on these. Now I just have to detirmine where is the greatest currect draw to the the (S)ense wire to. Apart from the battery, is there an alternative place that more effective?
So, this is the existing wire that feeds the plug on the CS130(D) (I noticed even the GMC SM calls it a CS130 which likely led to my assumption that's what it was) and from some confusion in reading across several forums and sites it's my only guess that this wire that measure Key On voltage of...
Here's what I just learned about the existing wire on that CS130 alternator;
There seems to be some electrical tape on that wire from the harness, perhaps someone else (PO) already added a resistor?
Key off 0.00V, Key on1.5-1.7V