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Ok, so, I think its the PMD. Here is why: Hooked up the pump connector directly to my spare PMD, drove around. NO codes, NO SES light. Hooked up the pump connector directly to the suspect PMD. Got the code and the SES lights. Both of these times there was NO extension harness in the circuit...

Well, the spare is the old one, and it was on its way out - no hot start. I can try plugging it back in the morning. I've been meaning to coat the connectors of the extension harness with anti-ox; haven't done that yet. Adding to my to-do list for tomorrow

if its bad fuel (hopefully we'll see tomorrow after I top off with 2% bio-d) i am never filling up at that station again. Btw, I cleared off the codes, drove it around the field, code 35 came back, code 36 didn't

It did start happening right after a fill up. Previous tank was a 2% bio-d, this one i think is just regular ulsd. Gonna go to the coop tomorrow and top off with a few gallons of bio-d. I poured some 2 stroke oil in but I don't have enough. Keeping fingers crossed, I hope its bad fuel. Not...

All of a sudden the SES (check engine) light started coming on; it comes on under acceleration; after reaching cruising speed of about 50mph it would stay on, but if I let off the accelerator, the light goes away. When I got home, I scanned the codes. The codes are 35 and 36. The PMD is...

Surging up and down for no good reason = bad accelerator pedal sensor (because it's all electronic in there) or bad pmd

Before '96, the glow cycle does *not* activate the pump. If you have a 1994, your lp is only on when there is oil pressure. A lot of people will tell you how the pressure-sensor-controlled lp is a big safety feature. Having said that, safety issues aside - a lp hot-wired to 12v ignition-...

Starter speed needs to be resolved, true. Truck can run with a non-working lift pump but starting will be hard, so, address the lp issues next. Fuel fitter next if in doubt, replace. if still hard starting, look at Pmd. If your pmd is not relocated, most people won't look past it until you...

Yeah I am in Omaha, NE and there is only one 100% biodiesel place. Only one!!! Still, it was worth looking for. I rebuilt a Mercedes 5-cal diesel. Soaked the head and the manifolds in bio-d. That made me a believer in it's solvent properties.

So, I did the power steering flush today. I used mobil-1 ATF and a small bottle of Lucas power steering stuff. Using the instructions found on this forum, post by HeartbeatHauler...

Can the EGR be disabled (for testing purposes)

FWIW if you decide to swap out the steering column, the first 9 steps from this "how to" should help http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?31159-Rotate-dash-replace-defrost-door-hvac-flow-distribution-flap-box

Biodiesel is a very good solvent. Run a tank of bio-d through it. Not just the 2% kind, something more like 100%. Note: it will loosen up all kinds of other crud in your fuel system as well. After you run a tank of bio-d, you would do well to replace the fuel filter. If crudduiness is the...

If you already have the replacement cluster, first try to justbpop it in and see if the fuel gauge works on it. That should at least tell you that there is no problem with the sending unit or the grounds.

Axle to frame is the same on both sides. Axle to ground is the same because it's 1/2 of the tire height. (lol)

Ok thanks, I will look into the bed mounts/bushings being bad.

I went out and measured. Axle to frame, ground to frame, all are the same on the left and on the right. Then I measured "top of the bed to ground" and sure enough, it's 1" off. So, the bed is seated unevenly, with rear pass. corner too low by 1". Can this be corrected?

Step 15. Put everything back together: Rotate the dash into place and bolt in. Reinstall the steering column and metal plates. Reinstall the knee panel. Reinstall the dash bezel. Reinstall the seat and the center console. A few notes on reassembly: - When rotating the dash into place, keep...

Step 14. Here is where the new box goes: Install the valve box. Starting with the side closest to you, then the rear part of the flange will snap into place. Use the three metal clips to affix the valve box in place. I am sure three clips are sufficient, and besides, I could not see a way to...

Step 13. Taking the valve box out is somewhat nontrivial. There are four metal clips that hold it in place, plus its flange is fitted inside the rest of the hvac box. This pic actually shows my new valve box in place, but you get the idea: The two clips in the front are easy. The left rear...