Recent content by yeti92

Problem resolved. The pressure plate to flywheel bolts weren't torqued enough so the diaphragm fingers never sunk in requiring excessive amount of travel. I noticed this when the guy at Tennessee clutch bolted it down to the flywheel on the clutch testing table. There wasn't any noticeable gap...

Well, i'm still fighting this problem. I tried putting a longer pushrod in and heres how i had to do it and what happened.. i had to take a steering wheel puller bolt it to where the slave cylinder mounts on the bell housing, run it in on the clutch fork, put an extension in the inspection hole...

I had someone push the clutch in slowly and no bubbles appeared. any other ideas? or possibility's?

Are you sure the pedal is returning all the way out?? Or the rod is in all the way on the master cylinder? yes and yes. so how do i determine these two problems?

Today i took a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller and bolted it to the side of my bell housing and ran the rod all the way down pushing the clutch fork (with the truck in gear). Low and behold the clutch released and i could spin the output shaft on the transmission. I then used the same...

Bison, yes it should but the clutch isn't disengaging so it's like putting your truck in gear and starting it without the clutch pedal depressed. Last time I had the clutch out I moved the clutch disc back and forth on the splines and it went smooth and didn't twist. as the splines can get...

It's pulling hard enough to roll but the truck has 42" inch tires on it and I have a platform built under it just to get the transmission up into the truck because my transmission jack would be well maxed out before it got to the height needed just to reach the transmission. Like I said the...

Olddieselguy could that much damage happen from just depressing the clutch pedal a few times? How would you go about prying the flywheel back and forth as that seems like a very good possibility as the engine is ticking loud and i tried adjusting the valve backlash and determined the camshaft to...

I know the clutch fork has a bit of back and fourth play, so that is verified.

Well i'm hoping that's not the issue as the clutch pedal goes down smoothly and definitely doesn't feel like it takes an abnormal amount of effort and the bearing retainer looked to be in good shape as i had another person inspect it also last time it was out. The only thing i can really think...

Well i pulled it and put it back in for the fourth time and yeah the pivot ball was worn to hell so this time when i put it back in i replaced the pivot ball and also put a second new clutch fork in it as the other new one was damaged from the worn pivot ball. While i was at it i put a pre-bled...

Okay, so i've bled it for over 2 hours and then some more. so bleeding can't be the issue. The reason the added length didn't work is it STILL isn't getting enough travel. This time when i pulled the trans i looked at how much travel i'd need the clutch fork to move, to move the throw out...

I called the SACHS guy again yesterday, and he told me to add some length to the slave cylinder pushrod to see if the added travel will allow the clutch to disengage. Well that didn't work, so i also removed the shifter to see if there is anyway that is in wrong, and once again that's not the...

Btfarm- i'll try to bleed it more but it's tough to push it with your arms so it's as stiff as i would think it could get. How can you put the shifter upside down/ backwards, doesn't it only go in one way? schiker-none of it's mismatched anymore, it's got the reccomended flywheel and clutch kit...

if you try to put in gear and start it the truck jumps and the gear you're in binds up. as far as i know there isn't, once i lined the splines and the dowels the transmission went on smooth. i looked into that and i believe the only differences were the way they mount, but everything is now...