Recent content by TheDjost

I jut removed the rubber/plastic splash shield and that gave me access to the front three GP's. To get to the back one, you can go in from the bottom, take the inner fender out, or my solution as pictured above: a small, well placed hole. It took me half an hour to take the wheel off, take the...

I just went out an took a picture of how I did mine a while back. I just eyeballed it and cut a 1 inch square hole in the inner fender with a die grinder and a cutting disk. Turned out great. Turned a nightmare into a 10 minute job. -Justin

Ok, so it will move itself with only the front powered. That's good to know in a emergency. I got the new u-joint installed yesterday, and as predicted, the noise is gone, so I'm happy to have my truck running good again. Now you guys make it sound like you have a single piece driveshaft and...

Ok, so I ran it easy to work an back without problems. When I go back I took the driveshaft off to look at the u-joints. You guessed it: the back joint had all four bad caps. Two were completely empty except for some rusty dust, and the other two wouldn't turn at all. I had to pry them off to...

Guys, I'm not talking about pulling the pinion gear out of the diff, just unbolting the rear u-joint and sliding the driveshaft section off the truck. Same thing as if I was fixing the u-joint. I'd just leave it off for a couple more days.

I have a distinct metallic clicking noise that is speed and load dependent coming from the driveline in the rear of my truck. It could maybe be the G80 that bit the dust, but I'm hoping for a failed u-joint. Since I have a 4x4 and I need to drive the truck to work tomorrow, I was wondering if it...

This one is a GM classic. It's the contacts in the turn signal switch wearing away and making the grease just barely conductive. Just enough to fool the flasher relay into activating. It usually happens more in the summer when the heat makes the grease is a little runnier. Usually if you wiggle...

Or maybe you have a pinhole in the fuel line between the tank and the lift pump. That will allow air to be sucked in by the LP.

You would not be the first to have bad fuse connections cause a no-start condition. If you want you can clean the fuse spades, and put some dielectric grease on them. That should help the oxidation from coming back. I don't think the glow plug relay issue is related, but I'd think about...

I had(still have) the same problem, turns out it was the almighty PMD/FSD. I also tried changing the fuel filter and taking the plunger out of the fuel shutoff solenoid. I am waiting for some cash inflow to replace it with a new unit. Mine acts up only on cold starts. It starts fine, will stall...

I know of one foundry in Montreal, but they don't do steel or iron. They specialize in aluminum and magnesium alloys for the aerospace industries. My ex-brother-in-law works there: http://www.mitchellaerospace.com/ There may be others, but I haven't heard of any.

I use the vent holes as a step when I'm working on the engine. Perfect place to climb up on to get better access.

Sure, no problem. Thanks. I posted in the other thread because other members wanted me to keep them up to date on the issue. I found my problem though: It was the PMD extension harness. The wetherpack seal was not perfect an moisture got in th connector in the bumper, resulting in some...

Ok, seems that the problem wasn't with the fuel shutoff solenoid. The engine started acting up again last week-end and this week. In the last couple of days, It's been hard to start, but as soon as it catches, it runs good. Sometimes after 30 seconds, it would just die, but start right back up...

Ok, seems that the problem wasn't with the fuel shutoff solenoid. The engine started acting up again last week-end and this week. In the last couple of days, It's been hard to start, but as soon as it catches, it runs good. Sometimes after 30 seconds, it would just die, but start right back up...