See, I told you it had been a while. For some reason, I was thinking the seal was on the piston and not in a groove in the bore. That's why you were having trouble understanding what I was saying. Did you get it fixed? That's all that counts. I just put the star in by hand, it practically falls...
Nope, removed the MC, then pushed the piston back enough to remove the star shaped retainer plate at the front, it can be turned sideways in the bore and removed. Then the piston will come out the front of the booster by applying a little pressure to the brake pedal, but just a little. The...
No, I didn't scratch anything because I never actually inserted the screwdriver into the bore or removed the booster from the truck. I put slight pressure on the piston with the palm of one hand and used the flat side of a screwdriver to press the seal down working around the circumference until...
I do it that way too and have never had any problems. Also there is no need to remove the bleeder screw because it has a small hole drilled through it. The owner's manual says to just open it about two rounds so the bleeder hole is open. I always give mine two more pumps after closing the bleeder.
I don't know if you can, as I said earlier, mine are from about '85 or so. You might start looking at some online wheel stores or maybe Discount Tire. 6 hole 16.5 rims are weird anyhow and most likely don't exist unless you have them custom made. Were it me, I would stick with the 16" or 17"...
That's what happens when idiots that drive low riders with those little chain steering wheels start trying to build trucks. These prolly have a little steering wheel that they can drive with their handcuffs on too!
The military tires say "Military" on the sidewall with the rest of the load rating and size data. I have a set of the older 36" military wranglers laying around and all of them have that molded on the sidewall. They fit a 9.5 x 16.5 8 hole wheel, mine are chrome and gold modulars that were...
I guess I'm a glutton for punishment. I have load range "E" tires also and the door sticker says 55 front, 80 rear. I found my mileage getting ever lower so I put 75 in the front and 70 in the rear unless the goose neck is on it, then 80 in the rear. It rides a little stiff, but I'm used to a...
I put 265's on my D-Max the end of September, they were the Mastercraft Courser AT2's. I lost some acceleration power and 2 MPG using corrected figures for checking the MPG. The odometer difference works out to about 2.5 miles for every 100 miles travelled. They look better on it than the 245's...
I know it's prolly a little late, but I had the same trouble on the '94, it leaked from the weep hole between the MC and booster. I bought a $35.00 seal kit from GM and fixed it. It took me 2 kits though because I didn't pay close enough attention when I put it back together and cut the big seal...
Maybe it wasn't a G80, but GM's version of it that came in the 1/2 ton 12 bolt the truck was originally built with in '79. It looks like the same unit going by the pictures I've seen. It never worked good from day one, one tire or the other would always spin, but hardly ever both at the same...
I know this is kinda late, but I have a '79 model K10 that I put a 14 bolt full floater under and put 8 hole rotors on the front axle to convert to a stronger set up for the 454 and SM465 4 speed. The rear has a Detroit locker and it is as bullet proof as a spool. It doesn't require the fluid...
Sadly, or maybe not, Fairbanks Morse and Alco no longer exist. You are looking at a very distant Alco cousin, the GE EVO engine, the latest and greatest (Greenest?) from them. The crank appears to be from a 12 cylinder version. Thanks for the pix and the heads up about them Tim. Mike
It has been about three years since I needed my radiator, so AZ has had that long to change vendors. Another thought, I was told that like batteries, there are only a couple of manufacturers that even make radiators in this country anymore, and they make radiators for suppliers who can and do...