Recent content by drag sgt

This guy made a coupler for his IDI using a 1" barbed fitting. Again I don't know what size our 6.5 grommets are but it's an idea. https://www.thedieselstop.com/threads/cdr-for-6-9-turbo-and-tube.424305/

What about cutting the base tube of the CDR off and fitting it with a rubber elbow then? That way you still have an OEM style connection that fits in the valve cover grommet. I doubt they're the same size, but if they're in stock locally you could have the parts store guys grab a 7.3 IDI valve...

I wouldn't run the new Provent2 with a CDR, but my comment was more to the fact that if I hadn't already spent $60ish to replace my old CDR valve, I'd spend the $180 to do a Provent2 conversion, instead. I don't have excessive blowby or oil consumption (knock on wood) so it's more of a want than...

Oh, I see now. I had to look at the service documents to spot it, but they reversed the inlet/outlet positions so that it pulls air up through the filters. IDParts has the 200 unit listed for 179.95 right now...

What has changed in the new Provent? I didn't see anything specific in their flyer comparing the old and new.

No, it just had all the OEM connector, previously. I changed everything except for the aforementioned over to a top post 3/8 connection paired with those military-style battery terminals.

This may be what I end up trying, as well, just to be thorough. Did you get the OEM wires from a different year truck, or different vehicle altogether? If I can repurpose something During the extended holiday I went ahead and upgraded all the battery connections, except the starter/alternator...

A week out and everything is running good still, with no cluster lights. We're visiting family in much colder climate right now and there have been quick startups, regardless. I'm actually feeling inspired to upgrade the rest of the battery connections, and starter cable now. Seems to be a lot...

@drag sgt To clarify my intentions, tomorrow I'm going to NAPA to buy a couple of 2.5' sections of bulk 2/0 cable, ends, and some solder pellets so I can assemble a couple new cables. I already purchased a new GP controller to do testing with, so it'll be a cost wash after it's all said and...

Side posts inspected okay, but I pulled up the battery ground diagram to make sure everything was clean/tight. Well this isn't exactly where this is supposed to go, but I can't get the bolt out conveniently... Where are you, G100 cable? No where... you're just not there... F me and F...

Okay so I replaced a couple more ground terminals from last night and ran my electrical tests. Both batteries were at 12.26--a little low but I've been cycling the WTS a lot these last couple days so I'm not concerned. On WTS, each battery was at 11.56. The 12v constant side of the relay was...

I read an old post last night that talked about probing each battery during WTS to get an idea of their voltages, then doing the same with each side of the relay to the battery negative, to see if a) the voltages are constant, and b) if there's a loss of current in the relay from the 12v...

Went ahead and did this tonight, including cutting off the old ring terminal and putting a new one on, and putting heat shrink tube on so none of the wire is exposed anymore. Ran a test and the relay voltage was still in the 10.7-11 range. A couple ring terminals on G104 were beat up so I plan...

Well took the truck out for a weekend drive to see how it would do. Yesterday was a consistent 50-55 deg day so thought it would be a good test. Started strong each time, but the SES light still came on after 3 drive cycles. Today I checked everything over, and tested the wires for power. All...

Well last night I unplugged the extension clips and front glow plug wire to see I could clean up/protect things better. With my face planted firmly against the fender flare (only way I could reach my hands all the way up), I mostly-blind covered the exposed wiring near the manifold with a piece...