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no start, no wts, no ses light after new motor install

mxracer14

mxracer14

Diesel Lover
Messages
38
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1
Location
v-town Alberta, Canada
ok guys i need some help here with my truck. 95 gmc 1/2 ton 6.5l diesel. I rebuilt a motor and put her in last weekend. got everything wired up and ready to start. primed it and have fuel at the filter, t-valve, and ip return but nothing at injectors. Also when i turned the key the first time there was no wts light, no ses light, and my fuel gauge is pegged at the 3 oclock position. I went through every ground today, cleaned and re attached. added a few grounds and nothing has changed. i cant pull any codes either. the rebuilt motor was out of another 95 1/2 ton diesel. i checked for power at the fuel shutoff and theres power there. what am i missing?? everything else works, radio, headlights, dash lights, heater etc.
thanks in advance for any help you guys can shine on me.
Brandon
 
Still a ground issue me thinks.
Check the grounds on back of pass side head again,make sure the core aint broke inside insulation,.. 95 i think has 3 wires there.
Also is the ground strap intact between frame,fire wall and rear of head(pass side).
I that all checks out,have a look at all the engine harnass connectors.
 
i have two wires and a ground strap at the rear there. when i pulled the motor there was only two black wires and the ground strap back there. so its the same as with the old motor. ive unplugged every connector and looked at them and they look good, no dirt or grime in them.
 
In my experience it will not start without a WTS light coming on. Have you tried hitting the switch a bunch of times to see if the WTS will come on?

The WTS issue on our 95 Suburban turned out to be the ignition switch. I never checked to see if the Fuel shut off solenoid was working when the WTS light was not coming on.

Google Wait to Start ghost &/or WTS ghost

Have you checked all fuses?
 
its an auto, and ive pulled the wiring looms apart to try and find this 3rd wire im told should be attached to rear of block there. nothing. ya ive hit the switch alot try to see if itll come on thinking maybe a contact in the ignition is wonky to no avail.

*Did you add the ground from the heater blower motor to the dash mount bolt a few inches away from it? * > i have not done this, this will help? lol its another idea for me to try tonight atleast.
 
The blower ground wire can supply ground backwards the wire loom and help bypass an issue. Do a continuity test to the dash brace tp make sure it is well grounded

I also add a ground to the right / passenger side battery box to eliminate the need for the cheesy ground screw on the inner fender.

Did you read the thread and look at the pictures on the grounds?

If you are missing a ground completely that would explain your issues.

You should have to ground straps running to the frame by the starter.

Do you have the ground going to the top of the Injection Pump?
 
ok i wil check the blower ground wire tonight after work. the ground is still to the top of ip. i have a ground strap from frame near start to firewall near heater hoses, then from there it goes to top of engine rear. theres also two black wires with eyelets that attached rear of engine as well on the intake. ive looked at many threads and pics involving grounds lol and from what i can tell everything is there. except the underhood lamp, i cut those wires when removing hood because the light didnt work anyway beforehand. that wouldnt be causing all this would it? lol
 
I have never seen wait to start or a start on the first crank after pulling the batteries for a period of time.

It seems that the computer needs to see a signals from a crank to find its way before it will start.

Crack an injector line, say #1. ( this will give air an easy point to release)
Give it a 10 to 15 second crank.
Turn off the key.
Check for fuel at the injector, expect none.
Key on again, should see WTS cycle, try to start.
If it does not start, check for fuel at the injector.
If you see some, you have air to continue to bleed.
If it starts, stop the engine and tighten the injector line.

You can check for power and ground at the PDM. Key on, should see 12v on the red wire, and zero ohms to the block on the black wire. This would verify ECM fuse and some of the grounds.
 
Well after all the reading on this issue the last few days I beleive it is a ground issue somewhere. I bought new wire and a hand full of ends plus two ground straps im going to replace them all tonight and tomorrow. hopefully something changes lol. If not i think ill switch the ignition switch from my parts truck, same year as mine and go from there.My buddy thinks the ecm might of went kaput, would the ecm from my parts truck work in my truck? i would have to switch Eproms right, as mine has been tweaked. i thought i checekd power and grounds to ecm and nothing seemed strange, although im not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it come to electrical....



*side note* while reading through all the info on no starts I came across the ip installation and timing dots orientation a few times mentionsing after lining up dots at 12 and 6 oclock they rotated the engine before installing the ip. What is this accomplishing? making sure the gears dont bind up? or.. the re assewmbly booklet i followed is a military version and it did not mention this. Just curious about that.
 
mxracer14 said:
Well after all the reading on this issue the last few days I beleive it is a ground issue somewhere. I bought new wire and a hand full of ends plus two ground straps im going to replace them all tonight and tomorrow. hopefully something changes lol. If not i think ill switch the ignition switch from my parts truck, same year as mine and go from there.My buddy thinks the ecm might of went kaput, would the ecm from my parts truck work in my truck? i would have to switch Eproms right, as mine has been tweaked. i thought i checekd power and grounds to ecm and nothing seemed strange, although im not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it come to electrical....



*side note* while reading through all the info on no starts I came across the ip installation and timing dots orientation a few times mentionsing after lining up dots at 12 and 6 oclock they rotated the engine before installing the ip. What is this accomplishing? making sure the gears dont bind up? or.. the re assewmbly booklet i followed is a military version and it did not mention this. Just curious about that.
Click to expand...

IP out of time will sure cause a no start.
Yes you have to line up the dots on the crank and timing sprockets at 6 and 12 o'clock and then turn the crank 90 degrees to get the pump drive gear dot at 12 o'clock before installing the IP with the dot on the drive gear at 6 o'clock
Its just the way these engines time.
It should however not cause the WTS light not to come on.
 
I think you need to read up on checking voltages and continuity. Somewhere here there steps to checking continuity ton help determine your problem,

Is there anybody near you with a 95 6.5 diesel that you can compare vehicles with? Look for something on theirs that is missing on yours. No WTS light should mean no glow plugs and no start.

Have you had the block heater plugged in while trying to start?
 
All fuses have been checked, pulled out, shined up and put back in with no difference. no block heater hasnt been plugged in yet. Went through all the ecm power, ign power and grounds and they are all good. I replaced both ground straps and new ground cables from battery to block battery to fenders and added some. Grounds are good, no question. when i hooked the multimeter to the pmd while cranking to see if it was getting its 1.2V i keep reading about. When i did that mine said 9.8V? and that was on the green wire. red wire 12v and ground is good.
 
oh and when i pull the gauges fuse, the check engine light and service throttle light comes on. put the fuse back in and those lights go out. still cant connect with ecm. have tried a different ecm as well with no change.
 
I only have two wires plus a ground strap there. and i have taken the wiring loom apart and searched for another wire and there is not another. when i tested the pmd again the green wire was pulsing 7.4-7.8v. way too high. ideas?
 
I'm not too electrically inclined ,but a bad or missing ground can do all kinds of funny things to the circuitry.
There should be a ground behind the ECM at the firewall, have a look at that one.
Unbolt the grounds on the head and trace them to the ECM,LP and tranny for continuity.
Unplug the CTS on the water crossover, that critter has known to cause funny things as well.
 
well i got her going. Didnt start till the hood was on and that ground strap from the hood to firewall was hooked up. sound strange? I assumed it would run with hood off. But the new motor is purring now! timed it yesterday and ended up with 8.7/8.7/-1.5. ground grounds grounds they told me... haha thanks everyopne for your input, i will post up my build thread later this week with pics!
 
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