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LBZ EGR...to block or not to block

0rion

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Location
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I'm kinda on the fence about blocking the EGR. I've read about the soot build up in the intake and the best I can tell that's the only reason to block it. Is there something else I'm missing? Any other pro's to blocking it? I removed the EGR system completely on my f-body but it was a much easier system to remove than this one and much easier to get to. Any write up's out there on blocking it so I can see exactly what's involved? I will most likely block it but I first wanted to see what the pro's were. I know on the f-body it's more of an appearance mod and for that car the tuning side of it was a much bigger headache than it is on these engines....it's since been made much easier on the gassers but when I did it the work to the timing table was pretty time consuming.
 
if i were you i would remove it, it is very easy if you are mechanically inclined and have two marbles running in the right direction. the soot buildup is so much worse than people think.... if you are over 5000 miles (which i'm sure you probably are) i would even recommend running water injection or water meth injection to clean out the intake and the heads.
 
I'd Remove it as well. I wanna Remove mine, but Kits to do so seem pretty much Impossible to Find.

If you don't Remove it, def. Block it.
 
The soot buildup is made 100X worse because of the PCV system IMO. The oil vapor turns the soot into a thick, nasty sludge that coats everything downstream of the EGR valve with black crud that builds up over 1/4" thick. I re-routed my PCV system to atmosphere after cleaning out the intake last year.

I believe that if you don't want to delete or block the EGR because of the CEL or other complications, just re-routing the PCV will eliminate a lot of the sludge build-up in the intake.

Here's what mine looked like when I took it all apart about a year ago:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=8679
 
The soot buildup is made 100X worse because of the PCV system IMO. The oil vapor turns the soot into a thick, nasty sludge that coats everything downstream of the EGR valve with black crud that builds up over 1/4" thick. I re-routed my PCV system to atmosphere after cleaning out the intake last year.

I believe that if you don't want to delete or block the EGR because of the CEL or other complications, just re-routing the PCV will eliminate a lot of the sludge build-up in the intake.

Here's what mine looked like when I took it all apart about a year ago:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=8679

does anyone run catch cans for the pcv system on these trucks? That would catch a lot of the oil. I agree that the oil is probably the main culprit with the build up. The inside of your exhaust pipe doesn't clog up like that and it has exhaust running through it too. I have efilive so the codes I'm not worried about. I'm just looking at the gains vs work more than anything.
 
There have been people that have fabricated catch cans using different Racor CCV cans, but it's not necessary. Mine is vented to atmosphere- there are no drips or stains in my driveway from either hose- no signs of liquid oil anywhere. It seems like whatever oil vapor or blowby comes out doesn't have a chance to slow down and condense like it does inside all the intercooler and intake piping.
 
There have been people that have fabricated catch cans using different Racor CCV cans, but it's not necessary. Mine is vented to atmosphere- there are no drips or stains in my driveway from either hose- no signs of liquid oil anywhere. It seems like whatever oil vapor or blowby comes out doesn't have a chance to slow down and condense like it does inside all the intercooler and intake piping.

how did you vent it? Did you put air filters on it? I really need to buy a "how diesels work" basic book and start reading. ALL of my experience has been with gas burners so I'm not sure what systems carry over and what don't. On the gas burners they normally use the intake to draw vapor from the valve cover via rubber vacuum lines so I'm assuming ( maybe wrongly) that these engines work on a similar principle and you just stick a filter on the valve cover like back in the day. Some even put another filter on the oil fill tube in place of the cap. These may be different but the problems I've seen with venting them that way is eventually you get a light film of oil under the hood and dirt sticks to it.
 
Just for a different perspective... I have 121k on my stock LBZ. All I've ever done is once every 100 to 150 miles I get on it hard from 1st through 3rd or 4th gear. There will be a big cloud of soot at that time. Afterward no soot. Truck still runs great and has never had a day of trouble except some gel problems in 30* below zero weather without a front cover last year. Thought about bocking it but never got around to it. It's kinda become the principle of the matter now. Plus, I'm shooting for 300k miles!
 
how did you vent it? Did you put air filters on it? I really need to buy a "how diesels work" basic book and start reading. ALL of my experience has been with gas burners so I'm not sure what systems carry over and what don't. On the gas burners they normally use the intake to draw vapor from the valve cover via rubber vacuum lines so I'm assuming ( maybe wrongly) that these engines work on a similar principle and you just stick a filter on the valve cover like back in the day. Some even put another filter on the oil fill tube in place of the cap. These may be different but the problems I've seen with venting them that way is eventually you get a light film of oil under the hood and dirt sticks to it.

There is a vendor over at the place that sells a kit to rerout your pcv. If you can't find it PM me and I'll tell who it is.
 
I'd definately block it. I just pulled apart the top end of the LBZ motor I just got (has 147k on it). NASTY doesn't begin to describe it.... I don't have any good pics of it at the moment, bit I've attached a pic of the heads, one cleaned and one not... I'll take a pic of the intake tube later though. There's about 3/8" of soot built up in it.... :puke:

EGR is probably one of the worst ideas in the history of Diesel motors....
 

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You have got to be careful with the delete kits. If you have emissions yearly to go through they will fail you for lack of egr. If you block it and tune it out then they wont know.
 
We don't have any inspections in FL anymore. Does blocking the EGR void the warranty?

If you take it in like that, it's a good possibility...You not letting it do the job as GM designed it to.
But, it really just depends on your dealer.
 
We don't have any inspections in FL anymore. Does blocking the EGR void the warranty?

If I read right you just got a 06 LBZ so you dont have much time left on your warranty at all. Post your vin and I will tell you what is left on it at this time. other then that I sell the blocker plate or the egr delete kits.
This one
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=23486
And I just started selling this one also.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=23485
Here is the egr blocker plates.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=23494
 
mine is an 07 with 30k miles left of power train warranty.
my vin is 1GCHK23D17F143053

Is the EGR delete kit easy enough to reinstall in the event it needs to go to the dealer for warranty work?

Left front axle seal is leaking so I'm definitely going to the dealer soon.
 
mine is an 07 with 30k miles left of power train warranty.
my vin is 1GCHK23D17F143053

Is the EGR delete kit easy enough to reinstall in the event it needs to go to the dealer for warranty work?

Left front axle seal is leaking so I'm definitely going to the dealer soon.

No its not and once you tune out for the egr being off they will see it when they read the ecm and the tcm when you take the truck in for work.
 
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