Where do the plug things go?

[Littleoleboo]

Hello, I really don't know what to say or where to begin. Other than this story begins out west. How I came to gain possession of the truck I'm about to describe is another story in itself. ...I now own a 1993 K3500 Sierra SLE GMC pick up. With a 6.5 turbo diesel engine. Hasn't ran in 7 years. I grew up around gear heads in the late 60 and 70z was a pit crew member for a few races in80z Winston up West Series. Gas motors I can do. For the last 3 weeks I've studied videos, read articles and labored until dusk. I've learned much about a 6.5 and many of the quirks. Did I mention that I have not ever worked on a diesel engine. But I knowe oil pressure sending unit is a dual duty that this engine is depends on many factors to get it up and going. Like after 7 years the fuel smells and need to inspect the sending unit sock, the primary filter, and that the injection pump is mechanical and not electrical and has not a PMD. .Lift pump to FFM and the IP does it's job. 3 weeks to finally get fuel to injectors. I'm buy two new batteries in morning. I put new glow plugs, ops, a second one just in case, a spare glow plug controller and changed filters and oil. How do you start this darn thing?

 

[WarWagon]

Flip down the driver's side sun visor and the starting instructions are there. FWIW: You wait for the Glow Plug light to go out then crank the engine.

After 10 seconds of cranking give up as it isn't going to start until something changes or gets fixed. The starter is overheating and the glow plugs have cooled off past 10 sec. Don't try longer than 30 seconds with 2 min to cool down. It has to spin over fast to start. No spark to get by with a weak battery or starter.

Lean on the "enter" key a little as the above is rough to follow.

Did you replace the bad smelling fuel? It could have bugs in it, gasoline, and/or water.

 

[Littleoleboo]

Flip down the driver's side sun visor and the starting instructions are there. FWIW: You wait for the Glow Plug light to go out then crank the engine.

After 10 seconds of cranking give up as it isn't going to start until something changes or gets fixed. The starter is overheating and the glow plugs have cooled off past 10 sec. Don't try longer than 30 seconds with 2 min to cool down. It has to spin over fast to start. No spark to get by with a weak battery or starter.

Lean on the "enter" key a little as the above is rough to follow.

Did you replace the bad smelling fuel? It could have bugs in it, gasoline, and/or water.

Yep. I dropped the tank and new sending unit installed. New filters in FFM . I just noticed that there is fuel to #1 injector. I've been informed to check the volt/ ohm at every glow plug now.(more research for specs) I've been advised to open all the injectors now to check for fuel at each one. Won't that let air in system?) Far as I know injectors are old but seem in fairly clean condition. It's late. I've also been told to close shop. I'll keep informed of progress. Gnight.

 

[ak diesel driver]

So I would start by bleeding the system. Open the FFM bleed screw and let it flow until you get bubble free fuel . Then do the same at the IP. Then I would pull the glow plugs (so it spins over easier) and crack open all the injectors ( make sure the pipe actually is loose on the injectors). Crank it over until you get fuel to them. Reinstall the glow plugs and tighten the injector lines. Plug in the block heater and let it percolate for a few hours, also do the glow plugs override mod and give it extra glow plugs time. Only do that with self regulating glow plugs such as ac Delco 60g or equivalent. Then fire it up.

 

[MrMarty51]

Yup, whats already been said.
After loosening the injector line at the injector, grab the steel tube and physicaly pull upwards and downwards on it to make sure it has unseated from the injector.
If it has not, use a small hammer or an end wrench a slightly tap on the tube until it comes free of its seat.
It usually takes about three loosening turns to get enough space within the nut and injector for the tube to pop free of its seat.

 

[Jaryd]

I normally just take out the 6 easiest glow plugs and not touch the injectors. With the glow plugs out it’ll spin over really fast. There will be no doubt in your mind when the fuel system is primed. There will be a mist of fuel coming out of the glow plugs hole and blowing over the fenders and up to the hood.

 

[Littleoleboo]

Ok, I be been cranking it at intervals as to not burn starter up. I tried this morning and fuel to all injectors. Cool. I'm in business. I'm crank n it and fire ten everything went dead. No power. Tried a second time . Ignition switch was not kicking in and when I shut it off, I smell wire burning. I find a 16 ,gauge . Fusable link burning. Second post on junction block from Left if facing firewall that goes to larger red wire. Scrambling to unhook batteries and find a wire bare of insulation on top of bell housing out of loom it's a small purple wire with a connector. I have yet to trace this red wire as my heart sank. I heard her want to start. I'm pooped. I'll holler tomorrow. Any ideas?

 

[dbrannon79]

That purple wire is the one that goes to the starter solenoid if i'm not mistaken. get you a new fuse link and replace that wire. double check the other wires, batt cable from the starter too for bare wires just in case. hopefully the short didn't burn your ignition switch under the column, but if it did, it's not real expensive to replace.

 

[MrMarty51]

While the batteries are disconnected, it would be a good time to clean the cable terminals. Especially that spacer lug between the two positive cable terminals on the passenger side battery. Get them shiny and clean. Low voltages is a destroyer of electronics.

 

[Will L.]

Yes. And when you can, eliminate side post batteries and use top post. Side post is nothing but a manufacturer saving a couple pennies (literally) and top post is far superior in every way for the owner.

 

[Littleoleboo]

Yes. And when you can, eliminate side post batteries and use top post. Side post is nothing but a manufacturer saving a couple pennies (literally) and top post is far superior in every way for the owner.

Thanks for that good advice. I m learning that alot of corrosion on wiring. Noticed that was one reason why the short occured. That's a lot a wires. Man I man. Any advice on what is best on the wires. Would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Littleoleboo]

That purple wire is the one that goes to the starter solenoid if i'm not mistaken. get you a new fuse link and replace that wire. double check the other wires, batt cable from the starter too for bare wires just in case. hopefully the short didn't burn your ignition switch under the column, but if it did, it's not real expensive to replace.

Thank you sir. I did exactly what you suggested and it did take care of my problem. I dropped starter to check. All good. New fusable link spliced with heat sink watertight connector. Now I noticed that someone cut the engine oil cooler lines and I'm just haven a time. She turns over acts like it's gonna start and hits like not a consistent cranking . Cranks real fast kinda pause then cranks like it's gonna start. Man it's breaking me and I spent 6 months in Saudi this beats the desert into a soup sammich. I'm gonna soak my feet. Thanks for that help. Much thanks.

 

[Will L.]

I am in las vegas nv area- so we dont have rust here except cars from other areas.
Others here might have better opinions. I use a stainless steel 1” wire wheel in a cordless drill, and brake cleaner to start, wipe it dry then use electrical contact cleaner.

There is only five or so connections we are talking about. The hardest one is the back right side by the transmission dipstick mount if automatic transmission.

On the oil lines:
THAT IS PANIC SCENARIO!!! So many people DESTROYED THE ENGINE from those lines leaking. Do not put off this repair. If they are actively leaking DO NOT drive it. Seriously 5 second from ok to junk engine.
Those lines and connectors are junk! Leroy Diesel sells aftermarket ones that is a good option. Other choice is remove the fittings and hoses, go to a hydraulic hose shop near you and have them make wire braid reinforced hydraulic hoses and matching fittings for the hoses. The factory connectors fail and cause it, sometimes the hose fails. Hmmwvs/ hummers (same engine) use hydraulic hose and fittings like caterpillar equipment uses. GM pinched pennies and made assemby line fast- hmmwv is done right because- go to war- meant dont be cheap and stupid. They never fail unless shot or blown up.

 

[dbrannon79]

@Littleoleboo One more thing... you said you dropped the starter! make dam sure you re-installed that rear starter bracket!! Or else the torque and weight of that starter WILL snap off the outer mounting ear of the block and will be the death of your engine.

Trust me, my truck is living proof!!! I can provide a photo of the welding job the previous owner did to the block for a repair. my engine is currently a ticking time bomb when that weld job comes apart!

 

[WarWagon]

The battery positive wire to the junction block also runs by the starter. The insulation likes to fall off and the fusible link at the battery was likely chopped off long ago. Bottom of passinger side battery tray the positive cable likes to rub through.

Now I noticed that someone cut the engine oil cooler lines

As in bypassed the oil cooler? Cut with a knife in places?

 

[Littleoleboo]

The battery positive wire to the junction block also runs by the starter. The insulation likes to fall off and the fusible link at the battery was likely chopped off long ago. Bottom of passinger side battery tray the positive cable likes to rub through.



As in bypassed the oil cooler? Cut with a knife in places?

Well not bypassed, just cut. Someone then attempted to repair with brass and clamps. I'm looking at ordering new lines but hear they are crap and to get aftermarket parts. Any suggestions out there? I gotta get this up n going soon. I hope.

 

[Littleoleboo]

@Littleoleboo One more thing... you said you dropped the starter! make dam sure you re-installed that rear starter bracket!! Or else the torque and weight of that starter WILL snap off the outer mounting ear of the block and will be the death of your engine.

Trust me, my truck is living proof!!! I can provide a photo of the welding job the previous owner did to the block for a repair. my engine is currently a ticking time bomb when that weld job comes apart!

You know I was doing the wire run down and noticed that very problem. Like someone just rammed it up not knowing it's there. I've remedies that. Anything else I need to look for as I'm bout ready to go get breakfast and head to the barn to wrench until it gets hot, or until my new ffm arrives. Have a good I'm.

 

[Littleoleboo]

I am in las vegas nv area- so we dont have rust here except cars from other areas.
Others here might have better opinions. I use a stainless steel 1” wire wheel in a cordless drill, and brake cleaner to start, wipe it dry then use electrical contact cleaner.

There is only five or so connections we are talking about. The hardest one is the back right side by the transmission dipstick mount if automatic transmission.

On the oil lines:
THAT IS PANIC SCENARIO!!! So many people DESTROYED THE ENGINE from those lines leaking. Do not put off this repair. If they are actively leaking DO NOT drive it. Seriously 5 second from ok to junk engine.
Those lines and connectors are junk! Leroy Diesel sells aftermarket ones that is a good option. Other choice is remove the fittings and hoses, go to a hydraulic hose shop near you and have them make wire braid reinforced hydraulic hoses and matching fittings for the hoses. The factory connectors fail and cause it, sometimes the hose fails. Hmmwvs/ hummers (same engine) use hydraulic hose and fittings like caterpillar equipment uses. GM pinched pennies and made assemby line fast- hmmwv is done right because- go to war- meant dont be cheap and stupid. They never fail unless shot or blown up.

Wires fixed. Oil cooler lines are...in search of a vendor. I would not or have not driven or started the engine yet. In process of rebuilding and restoring an inheritance. I'm putting it all together now before any other unpredictable unforseen events occur. .

 

[dbrannon79]

for the oil cooler lines, are they plugged off or is the metal line still on the rig connected? talk to Leroy, I believe he sells a good set from what I remember everyone recommends him.

 

[Will L.]

Leroydiesel.com is a trustable supplier.