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- Boulder City Nv
I still say someone could make some cast aluminum valve covers and make a descent chunk of money at it.
Maybe with an oring instead of a gasket?I still say someone could make some cast aluminum valve covers and make a descent chunk of money at it.
I've been dealing with them since way before the internet.They have a lot of mighty nice stuff. I signed to get a catalogue.
“Billet” would sell better probably, that’s the latest trend in aftermarket partsI still say someone could make some cast aluminum valve covers and make a descent chunk of money at it.
Did you have to shave the washers on the sides to fit them in the rockers? I might do this the next time I take mine apart Been thinking about investing into a cherry picker to pull the engine so I can do my oil pan gasket sometimePulled the rocker shafts.
Got the grade 8, 1/4” X 3/4” bolts and the thick washers. Used grade 5 steel self lock nuts.
Wedged a screw driver between the nut and the inside of the rocker arm tube.
I read about this someplace on the innernet, probably in here but I dont remember.
It most certainly is a lot easier to clean off the gasket goop from the back of the cylinder heads with them rockers out of the way.
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No, but there were two different size thick washers in the hardware store.Did you have to shave the washers on the sides to fit them in the rockers? I might do this the next time I take mine apart Been thinking about investing into a cherry picker to pull the engine so I can do my oil pan gasket sometime
I've frequently used metric washers for different applications. Sometimes on a fastener website you can find all of the specs.No, but there were two different size thick washers in the hardware store.
The ones that I chose to use are 1/4” X .750 OD. IIRC the other 1/4” size washer was a little larger and would not fit between the sides of the rocker arm.
One thing that I did not think to look at was the metric size thich washers, if maybe they may have been a little smaller OD and also slightly smaller ID so that they would maybe have been a more precise size on the bolt.
These warshers do tend to drift ever so slightly one side or the other.
What I do see, within the arms of the rockers is, there is some slight wear to one side of the arms so I guess being an exact fit Is not such a big deal.
Didnt think of the serrated, washer head, bolts. In a 1/4” size bolt the washer head might be too small.I've frequently used metric washers for different applications. Sometimes on a fastener website you can find all of the specs.
Would serrated head bolts work to eliminate the washers?
Did you use nylocks?
I was curious about nylocks being oil resistant if that's what you used.
I’ll pour in an extra can of Liqui-Moly to help decrease the friction between the rocker arm and the warsher.Here ya go:
Replacing Rocker ButtonsMy rocker buttons were all holding up just fine, but with nearly 300K miles on this engine, I just couldn’t bring myself to put the rocker shafts back on with the nylon buttons still in place. I did some searching to see what other options were out there. Just replacing the buttons with bolts...www.thetruckstop.us
DIY SS Riveted Rocker Retainers (With Pics and PN's)The stock 6.5 rocker is held in place by a nylon button. I had one break on me, now I'm replacing the piston rings in cylinder 6 because of it. No way I'm putting nylon in again. I could have gone with expensive HS roller rockers, or the bolt method, but I thought I'd try something similar to...www.thetruckstop.us
Honda bond is good stuff. That is what they recommended to seal the VTEC solenoid on my Honda Accord.Okay, got the rocker arm covers tapped back to flat.
Installed the allen studs that came with the rocker cover girdle kit. Attempted to set the rocker cover over the head and those studs on the left hand side. I found that removing the two front studs that the cover sets down onto the head much easily. I will practice that move several more times before installing the covers.
I guess applying the glue to the head surface/rocker cover contact area, would be a lot less messy than applying it to the cover then handling the cover and placing it in place atop of the head.
But now, I am in a dilemma mode.
I have had the right stuff fail, intake manifold rail ends on a 1987 Buick, 2.8 V6. Even let it set over night before torquing it down. So, I now do not hold much faith in that right stuff.
I have used Honda Bond on a lot of oil exposed items, including Triumph motorcycle engines with vertically split engine cases and never had a leak from them.
I just dont know how well that Honda Bond would hold applying it as heavy as required for the rocker covers on these engines.
I also have on order a set of cork rocker cover gaskets. Thinking a nice smudge of that Honda Bond to each side of the cork gasket, set them over the studs, set the RC over the head and lightly tap on it like what Leroy shows, then let it set for a day or so and then set the extra gasket over the cover, the girdle and then fasten it all to torque.
Any thoughts on using something like that Honda Bond ?
Any thoughts on using cork gaskets with sealer on both sides between the head and the covers.
I am also tempted, long as I have sprung in this deep to the CC, to just spend the extra hundred, plus mailing, and get that set of reinforced, reusable gaskets from Leroy.
I do have a partial tube of Honda Bond. I’ll go to the Marine/Honda dealer Monday and get a fresh tube.Honda bond is good stuff. That is what they recommended to seal the VTEC solenoid on my Honda Accord.
Saw Leroy’s video showing cork gaskets on both sides of the valve cover. Talked to him after the girdle kit arrived and he said you can install one under, but don’t need to. I have yet to install it. He suggested not pulling the valve cover and simply installing the girdle over it to see if it stops the leak. I just haven’t gotten around to it due to the cold Montana winter and the fact I was troubleshooting the electrical on the transfer case which is more of a priority.
Was that a solid sort of a clunk noise, or, was it a series of clicks while the key is held to the start position ?I suppose heat and idling is the #1 killer on the starter! last night I went to pick up my son from work. sat there idling for about 20 minutes while he finished up. then headed off the Wataburger for dinner. while in the drive though I had to kill the engine so they could hear me in the loudspeaker, made my order and then went to start the truck... click....click...vroom!! this was the first time I have had the starter do this on this truck. I figured it was due to all the idling and it most likely heat up the starter pretty good. That or it's trying to warn me that it's time....
it was a solid clunk when I turned the key. did it twice, once for the first two tries then it cranked over like normal. I could hear the Bendix hit but nothing else.Was that a solid sort of a clunk noise, or, was it a series of clicks while the key is held to the start position ?
One solid click/clunk would be starter failure.
Series of click click click is a battery low on voltage or else a poor connection between batteries and starter.