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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

MrMarty51

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Miles City, Montana
Cleaning out under the seats of the truck.
Come across this manual waste gate controller that I had built from some odd n ends that was laying round.
I used it for a while until I got enough to buy a vacuum pump. Now with the ATT turbo I no longer need this device.
If someone needs one a these then let Me know, I’ll ship it.
It is marked 7/16ths from the top washer to the base and that always got the boost real close on My truck.
This is made for the GM8 turbo. I’m sure the spring, rod, washers and etc could be used to build a controller for any of the other model of GM turbos.
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Big T

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Fullerton, CA
Got the arm rests for the ‘94. The passenger side had one of the plastic pins broken off, so I will need to send it back. I sprayed the other with leather/vinyl refinisher AND the stuff does not stick.

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J_dude

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Southwest Saskatchewan
Finished the wiring for the light bar last night, but it didn’t turn on... so I had to trace all my wiring back and check everything, turns out it was a bad crimp or something by the relay. Anyway, it’s good to be able to see at night again!

Also, when I was cleaning up tools after that adventure I noticed a puddle of coolant on the floor... not quite sure where it’s coming from but it was dripping down onto a crossmember and that was all I could see, I’ll have to look a little more closely when I have more time. Funny thing is the coolant level doesn’t seem to be dropping yet.
 

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Seguin, TX
Got the arm rests for the ‘94. The passenger side had one of the plastic pins broken off, so I will need to send it back. I sprayed the other with leather/vinyl refinisher AND the stuff does not stick.

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the new arm rest material might be empregnated with some kind of oil or preserving stuff to keep it from dry rotting while sitting in a warehouse. try some rubbing alcohol by weting a clean lint free rag and giving it a good few wipes. do it 3-4 times after letting it dry. then try the vinyl paint again.
 

dbrannon79

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Hey Guys, just an off the wall question... all the talk on a couple of threads about Pensacola diesel, that PMD I scored from the pick a part yard is from them. how good are these compared to the cheap ones? I had already tested it and it seems to work, only ran the truck on it for about 30 minutes on a trip into town.

I'm thinking about mounting it with the heatsink it came with into the front bumper as a ready spare or run it and use my current one (amazon chineesium) as the spare. should I be able to trust it to be a better quality PMD to the one I have?
 

dbrannon79

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Welp, I might have a coolant leak… And just as summer time is coming to a close! I usually check the coolant and oil at least once a week and rarely have to add anything. Just went to pick up my son from work, started up the truck and the low coolant light was on!!!

Popped the hood and opened the cap, stuck my finger in for a feel. Nothing, I ended up pouring a whole gallon jug of water in to get it where I could feel it with my finger 😱

Went and picked up my son, got back home and looked around for anything dripping but didn’t see anything. I guess I need to start looking closely at it.
 

dbrannon79

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I think I found the leak. went back out to see if anything had dripped while taking our spoiled brat dog out to potty lol. there were two spots on the driveway. slid under the truck to have a closer look. the tee on the lower rad hose where the smaller hose goes up to the coolant bottle is leaking. also had coolant dripping from the oil cooler lines. followed the wet marks up past the drivers side of the timing cover and found the t-stat crossover is leaking where it mounts to the head.

time to order a new lower hose, crossover gaskets and a new thermostat. plus I get to dump fresh green antifreeze in and be ready again for this winter.
 

Big T

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Trying to swap out the LCA’s on the ‘94 Suburban. Down to removing the rear bolts on the LCAs. No one answered in the suspension forum, so I will ask here: DO I HAVE TO DROP THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL TO CREATE THE CLEARANCE NEEDED TO REMOVE THE REAR LCA BOLTS?

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Big T

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OK, got all the bolts out holding the LCAs. Remind me how to drop them? Last ones I did in the wrecking yard were forged and they dropped right down.

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Watching videos on this and I need to remove the torsion key bolts. I have the tool to hold the torsion keys. Just paint a white mark on the torsion key bolts so you know how far back they go in on the reinstall.

Once I drop these things, it’s time for grinder w/ cut off wheel to cut them off the bars. Once they are off, the reinstall should go fairly quick. The forged ones never stick to the torsion bars.

This work just beats you up and I am using a cordless impact on most bolts.
 
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