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Walbro FRC-10 and Pre-Lift Pump Filter Install

DieselCash

Trust but, verify
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Location
Salado, Texas
I installed a Walbro FRB-10-2 and Pre-Lift Pump Filter with mount today.

Before I started working on the install I took a video of the truck running. It has been stated that this LP will change how your truck sounds when it is running.

http://youtu.be/OUiMkvL8o3M

http://youtu.be/Zbx0r9keYsg

I also tested to see what my LP pressure was at the end of the fuel drain.
Running at idle: As you can see it drops to 1psi at idle
Idle fuel pressure.jpg
Pressure with LP on motor not running: with the motor not running it sits at 3.5psi
Lift pressure.jpg

I started out by removing the parking brake cable bracket.
Bracket removed.jpg

Then I removed the old factory LP and plastic holder. Here is what it looks like installed.
Old LP 1.jpg

Removed LP
LP Removed 2.jpg

More to follow! :thumbsup:
 
The first thing I installed was the LP fittings from Burning Oil, here is what they look like installed:
Fittings installed.jpg

I had to attach the hose to it after I installed the fitting to keep me from getting soaked in Diesel Fuel. Words of advice! :thumbsup:

I then installed the bracket on the inside of the frame rail. It is help in place with two bolts and is held in place pretty tightly. Here is what it looks like installed:
Bracket installed 1.jpg

I then had to prep the Walbro for install. I attached two hose fittings and the two wires with the GM fitting. Just remember when doing this the gray wire is 12V + and the black wire is negative. Here is what it looks like installed on the bracket:
Walbro Installed.jpg

I then prepped the pre-lift pump filter. It is a two inlet and two outlet filter housing. It came with two caps and I purchased two fittings 1/2" to 3/8" hose. I put on a little Teflon tape to keep the leaks at bay. Like the pump it is mounted to the bracket with two bolts. Here is what it looks like all mounted up:
Filter 1.jpg
Filter 3.jpg
Filter 2.jpg

More to follow! :thumbsup:
 
I then attached all the 3/8 hose to tie it all together. I purchased cheap hose from the local parts store. I purchased 3 feet and used it all. I held it to all the fittings with worm gear hose clamps from Home Depot. Here is how it came out.
Hose installed.jpg

Just remember to pre-fill the filter. I had no Diesel Fuel laying around so I used 2 stroke oil. :eek: It worked! :agreed:

So far it is working great! Dead head is at 11 psi and idle is around 5 psi. It drops about 1 psi for every 1500 rpm.

The best part is Made In The USA! :thumbsup:
Walbro box.jpg

I am going to drive it a couple of days and re-check the pressure to see if it comes up any before I post more videos of the after new Walbro pump.

I will say it does seem to run better! :hihi:
 
I want to give a shout out to PMD Cable for putting together such a great kit. His hard work made it possible for me to get all this installed in about 2 hours.

Thanks Leroy!
 
This is really good work Diesel Cash! Its gonna be a great help to me cause I got the same setup from Leroy. U doin great with the pics, I rode the short bus so visual aids are a HUGE help!
 
This is really good work Diesel Cash! Its gonna be a great help to me cause I got the same setup from Leroy. U doin great with the pics, I rode the short bus so visual aids are a HUGE help!

If you need any more help let me know. I can always take more pictures! :thumbsup:
 
I think I can do this, I did the 5 micron Wix FFM thing today, not sure if yall will see the pics of that, my bracket is very ugly and crooked. My walbro and filter install is gonna be as good lookin as yours tho!!!! I just hope it will start after all my butchery! Not joking!
 
What did u do with the parking brake bracket?

It is still installed. The bolt that did hold it on was replaced with the one for the bracket. So the new bolt holds on the parking brake bracket. Into the hole from were the old bolt went. Then into the new bracket on the other side. I will take a picture tomorrow and add it.

On Edit:

Here is a picture of both old frame bolts. The one to the right is hard to see. It is right behind/below the parking break cable on the far right of the picture. You will only see the threads sticking out of the frame.
Outside frame rail 1.jpg

Here is a picture of the outside frame rail with both new bolts.
New frame bolts.jpg

Hope this helps you out Orrum! :thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Nice install & we all love pics so thanks for sharing them.

I have the WB pump mounted with all new rubber fuel lines on my truck. Can someone help convince me why I would want add that filter to it? I mean it's not in the most advantageous place for changing it right? Why is it needed & what risk am I taking by running without it? Thanks in advance for the info!
 
Adding a prefilter to a lift pump is just added insurance and added life to the pump. If there is any foreign contaminants in the tank that gets loose, there is not much stopping it from getting into the lift pump. Depending on the warranty, not having a prefilter is a definite void to whatever warranty was there before.
 
Ok but isn't there a sock in the tank on the suction tube?

And here in the frozen tundra midwest how well is that gonna perform when it's cold enough to freeze ice on my mustache?

Yes there is a sock in the tank. After almost 18 years sitting in my tank I am sure it is not stopping much. Plus I believe it has been stated on here they do not stop much. I do not know what micron rating they are.

I lived in Fairbanks, Alaska for 5 years. The fuel stations sold Number 1 Diesel fuel more than half of the year. As long as you had the right Diesel fuel in the tank you would not freeze up. I had a buddy the last winter I was up there and he never froze up.

To me you would have a better chance of a fuel line freezing up over a fuel filter.

Like stated above, it is added insurance to keep crap out of my injector pump and injectors.
 
The diesel isnt going to gel in a big ole filter, it will gell in the lines first. I managed a Southern States Petroleum delivery and distribution center in Elkton Md, and modern diesel is LSD and then ULSD but before that was when it gelled so bad. Modern diesel u wont have a problem as long as u drive regular. When u gotta think about it is u only haul with ur diesel sporratically and its got fuel from the summer and u get in it in Dec. to go get a load of something and it gels. The lines are there where slush slings up on them and freezes them in ice and they dont gel. Gel is actually wax crystals that clog ur system and injectors but they still flow, think of sweet tea, the sugar is there but it still pours. The engine heat alone takes care of melting the crystals. Best thing to do if u r in the siberian express is to let ur truck idle to operating temp and then drive off and u wont have a problem. Back in the 60s diesel fuel wouldnt gel in a farm tractor sitting still or pulling a hay wagon thru the fields feeding the cattle but we had cattle about 4 miles down the road to feed too and if we went there in road gear it would gell and shut the tractor down before we got out of sight of the barn witkout kerosene in it. Back then we always put 10% kerosene into the big fuel tank all winter. Nowadays a lot of farmers never had a tractor gell!
 
Ok but isn't there a sock in the tank on the suction tube?

And here in the frozen tundra midwest how well is that gonna perform when it's cold enough to freeze ice on my mustache?

I'm up in Labrador (slightly warmer climate than Alaska but almost as far North) and i never had the fuel heater hooked up. I never knew i had one, only when i found it with the intake manifold off and pulled it out. The wires had been cut some time before i ever got my hands on it. Never had a single issue with fuel gelling but i'm sure we have winter fuel in the tanks fairly quickly.
 
Just got Bills PM and it sounds like he had some problems with my mount. Apparrently the frame on a dually is wider. The filter would hit the frame because there is not enough offset in the bracket.
Just to confirm the bolt holes I intended the bracket to use are
1. front hole. The hole for the lower factory LP mount. The factory black plastic holder thing, it need to be removed then use the lower hole.
2. rear hole. The factory parking brake cable retainer/guide. Remove the stock bolt & use bolt from kit to replace it and run it into new bracket nut on other side.

Again sorry for the problems you had Bill, but glad you got it figured out.
 
Nice install & we all love pics so thanks for sharing them.

I have the WB pump mounted with all new rubber fuel lines on my truck. Can someone help convince me why I would want add that filter to it? I mean it's not in the most advantageous place for changing it right? Why is it needed & what risk am I taking by running without it? Thanks in advance for the info!

As said extra insurance for LP and everything upstream. But,The biggest thing IMO is you can remove that PITA tank sock. A pluged sock will stop the engine from running. You can blow the junk off it, but its a temp cure and a sucky job to have to do.
Alot of pepole never have a problem with a dirty sock but, I did and it gave me fits tring to figure out why the truck would just die. Thought is was a PMD?
As far as changing the filter. Its in a very easy place to do filter changes. They don't cost alot. Any 1"x14 fuel filter could be used. Assuming you don't get alot of crap in your fuel the filter should last atleast 20-30k miles between changes.
 
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