Uggh..another 6.5 Adventure now with AC

[turbopower6]

Hi Folks,
After 20 years the 96 Suburban condenser is leaking with much thanks to our local roads department for supplying large amounts of salty brine to make their snow removal efforts so much easier!!
So here we go...I was forewarned that the ac connections to the condenser would be "welded" over time. That is a correct statement. They are. I have been persuading them with penetrating oil (JB 80) with no signs of the rust giving up.
I am turning to the group for some ideas here on how this can be remedied. I am of course backed against the wall since the low side line for the 6.5 with the C69 option (rear air) is NLA! Of course....why would GM make our lives easier?
Has anyone had one of these manifold lines made up or cut the end of and spliced in a new condenser connection? I really do not want to add another potential leak source by splicing but I may have to.
I have not even tried the liquid lines just yet to get to the orifice tube. Currently they are soaking in penetrating oil. Same thing for the accumulator connections.
I think I need professional help....and not for the truck but for me to keep on heading off to adventure land with this vehicle!

Regards,
Ted

 

[WarWagon]

First off don't turn anymore nuts than you absolutely have to in this case. Due to added expense I suggest you fix what broke only. Replace condenser, add oil by a chart for component replacement... There are line repair kits you can use if the nuts have welded themselves.

Depending on how long the system is open you may replace the accumulator as well. I would do all I can to minimize the time the system is open to avoid two more welded nuts and evaporator replacement from said stuck nuts. Have parts on hand figuring both condenser nuts are a total write off.

Orface tube... because the compressor hasn't failed leave it alone. If you do want to remove it use a 15-10413 (GM p/n 89016656) inline filter and snip the screen off the OT - The filter is designed to cut out the OT section and replace it. Assuming you wind up cutting the OT out due to a welded nut...

 

[JayTheCPA]

While some of the lines are NLA, I did have a set of lines to / from the rear fabricated by a local shop just a few years ago. Point is, don't sweat too much if stuff is NLA, especially the lines.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Find somebody that does a/c work on semi's or large equipment. Most of them have the tools to make lines and/or weld new ends onto the lines. Or a large hydraulic hose shop may be equipped to build a/c hoses. It's normally the aluminum fitting on the condenser that corrodes to the steel nut on the aluminum line that's the problem. Sometimes you can use a pick or some sort of small pointed but sharp tool to scrape the aluminum out of the steel nut, and get it to thread onto the new condenser fitting. Otherwise you can take this opportunity to have custom lines built and install a larger universal condenser.

 

[turbopower6]

No luck so far with the condenser lines! I drilled a small 1/8" hole with a #3 centering drill just through the female nuts to allow penetrant to seep into threads from the condenser fittings. So far no luck moving those fittings. I am AMAZED at how tight they are as I gave the wrenches everything I had. Maybe I am getting old and weak or something.
I tried a little ...and I mean little heat from the benz o matic thinking it would ease them up. No luck with that trial..back to more soaking with PB Blaster.
How am I doing so far?
Has anyone tried pipes on the end of the wrenches for leverage? It stung me that these could require that much effort!
I am praying that I do not have to cut the ends and have to splice to the new condenser. Taking the lines off means encountering more possibly frozen fitting like down near the bulkhead on the passenger side. That looks like it will involve taking that damn inner fender out again! I am onboard for what WarWagon mentioned. Take off less not more than needed!