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Trans-Go Jr. write up & Hoot flush

Jasondt2001

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Location
Salinas, Ca
Ok, Well i decided to do the trans-go Jr. install with the hoot flush method after...
I unfortunately had no lift, and decided I had other uses for my floor jack (thank goodness I had it available!).

There's no special tools or anything needed for this...
To be honest I think I only used a 12mm 15mm and 14mm sockets, an extension and ratchet, a torque wrench, a flat blade screw driver or hooked scribe.... oh, and a drill!

Guys - this is just basically an outline to R and R the valve body... I did not include instructions on installing the transgo as if it ever changes I don't want people relying on a outdated post because they won't read the instructions that come w/ the product.
It's about as detailed as I could get with tranny fluid all over the place, and a camera in hand... :spit:

OK enough talking! On to the pics!

1. Drain Fluid

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OK, Dropping the pan is pretty self-explanatory... Put the drain plug back in the drain pan...
Then take all the pan bolts off EXCEPT 2 on opposite sides... just loosen them.
Put your hand on the middle of the pan bottom, push upwards, then take the 2 loosened bolts out of the pan and slowly bring the pan to the ground.
KEEP THE PAN LEVEL - You will see why in the bottom pics...
Once on the ground, I used the pan to let the valve body and filter continue dripping and draining into the pan itself.

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OK - Time to remove the internal filter... yes this is one that is OVERHAUL ONLY... Well if I had the right filter that was sold to me, I would have replaced it - it's SOOO easy. I always hear "only during overhaul" and I think it'd be hard to get to, and horribly hard to change! :baby:
So, to get it off, put your hands on it, twist and gently pull down... It will come off in your hands.
It will also bring QUITE a bit of tranny fluid with it - so be prepared to let it drain. I put it back in the trans drain pan and let it drain... only because I had to re-use mine :confused: (I was sold the wrong one). :rolleyes:

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Ok - Deep breath... Now it's time to get into the valve body.
First thing, unhook all of the electrical connections -

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Another View:

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Watch the hidden one!

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Second Part:

Ok, there's a sliding PIN on the upper side of the valve body that you can not yet see. It fits into a slot in the METAL portion of the selector gear you can see in the below picture. It is important to be careful taking it out, and also be careful to put it BACK in the slot that's cut out for it.

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To help keep out of confusion - The below picture is NOT the pin I'm talking about in the above picture - it's totally different. You WILL see it when you get the valve body down. The pin in the below picture is a peace of cake, the other pin is a pain in the butt!

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Back to removing the valve body:

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Here's the breakdown of the bolts you need to remove to get the valve body off of the truck.

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Once the valve body is off the truck, here is the other bolts that need to removed to split the valve body in half.

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NOTE: to aid in splitting the valve body, take out all the bolts, and rethread a few bolts back in the holes - just a couple turns, than gently and evenly push the exposed bolt heads with the valve body sitting sideways to aid in splitting the two sections apart

Ok, now consult your trans-go jr instructions about pulling out the solenoids and installing the new valves!

FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS NOT MY PICTURES ON THE HOLES! Just in case if they ever change anything...

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Here is the pressure switch they're talking about in the instructions:

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Don't forget the accumulators and put the solenoid bracket back on with the three bolts, or they WILL fall out :confused:

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Third Part:

Installation is the exact same as taking it apart...
I didn't have the truck on a jack, so I couldn't really get in there that well.
I called my wife and had her come give me a hand in the garage.
I put a rubber glove on my floor jack, set the valve body CAREFULLY on it and wheeled it to where it needed to be. I then had her SLOWLY jack up the valve body close to the transmission... I then picked it up by HAND (do NOT use your jack to put it in position, and PUT THE PIN IN the SLOT.
Then line the valve body up with the pins/dowel in the transmission push it into position and thread a few bolts in there to get it held up.

Then torque ALL the bolts to 110 inch pounds.


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Ok, I assume that you have the valve body in place ready to start the flush, right??

Here we go:

First thing - Change your spin on filter... take the old one off, add a little fluid inside the new one, put the magnet BACK on the new one from the old one. Smear a little tranny fluid on the rubber for the new one and screw on - Do NOT go gorilla tight on it, it's not needed. When the rubber makes contact with the metal, one additional turn is all that is needed.

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This is where your helper is going to be worth their weight in GOLD!!! :iamwithstupid:
Have them start the truck, and let it run in PARK first, when the container is about half full have them stop it.

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Ok, my instructions on the picture aren't really clear so what i meant to say was: Start it in park for about 2 seconds; then put it into reverse for 4 seconds; then into drive for 4 seconds; park again for 2 and then TURN it off.
This isn't scientific... it's just what worked for me...

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Now that you're done.... put it back together!!!

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Ok guys - now you need to check your fluids again - drive it around the block - check your fluid...
Drive it around, check the fluid again...
Get the hint?? Fluid is IMPORTANT :hello: So don't ignore it!

You guys are DONE!!!!

I have to take the time here to thank the people that helped me in my thread with all the questions I had.
I have to especially thank Mike L. for putting up with me - I had to call the guy 3 times, yes 3 times on a BUSY day for him :hug:
Thanks again!!!

Matt at Champion Transmission, Thank you SOOO Much for my transgo KIT!!!!! I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

I hope this helps someone, if I'm wrong, or missed something, DON'T BE SHY!! Last thing I want to do is misguide someone into untrue information! :thumbsup:


A few things I learned... damn it feels good to have done this myself and it works! :D

If it's only $90 bucks to have the transgo jr. done... all you have is a garage floor and aren't going to jack it up - pay someone. Trust me :happy2:
 

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I have to be honest - there was a moment (or two) I took a step back and thought "What the HECK am I doing? If I break this it's ALL over for me...."
The moment I put it in gear and it didn't explode I was happy; the moment it shifted through gears I was extatic!
 
Nice write up Jason! One thing about the clips. You can install them ahead of time and then push the line in until you hear it click. Then you know you're there.
 
Nice write up Jason! One thing about the clips. You can install them ahead of time and then push the line in until you hear it click. Then you know you're there.

The clip for the cooler hose or the valve body? Either way - good tip!!
If it's the cooler one you're talking about (which I think it is) it would have been nice to be able to do it your way...staying directly underneath that line when it was trying to leak on me was not fun :icon_bs:
Thanks again man! :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, the one on the cooler lines. I was told that by a GM tech before I did my supply line last winter. No big deal at the trans but it would have been a nightmare at the radiator!:eek: Damn that was a nasty job. I posted a proceedure but no pics with it.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=8095
 
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Nice write up. I did mine 30k mikes ago when the truck had 1K on it. The install was pretty straight forward, but more messy than anything else.
 
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