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Tlime for new piston?

denata

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Measure bore.

102.98 mm in top bore
103.04 mm inside bore min and
103.08 max.
Ellipse 0.04 mm


Cylinder wear 0.1 mm
Is it time to grind the block?
 

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I could apply a build up coating to the skirts to take up some clearance, I do that for race motors here...

Go us a favor and use inch measurements so we don't need to convert ... is, measure the skirts 1" up from the bottom, then measure the bore half way down the stroke, post the difference in thousants ...
 
I fixed these pistons last weekend for a local racer... added .005" to the skirts and coated the tops... this is not a band aid it's permanent . I also offer NEW standard bore 18.5 :1 & 18:1 w/valve reliefs pistons and could redo the skirts to build them up if you chose..


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Wow, that's plum purty there.

What kind of race car does that engine go in? Saturday Night short track race car?
 
Piston ring clearance 0.028 inch (0.7mm)
 

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Your ring clearance is only slightly big, you could use a new set anyway and clearance them correctly, while your at it, you could send the second ring to Total Seal and they machine it and make it a gapless ring, all for 10$ per ring + 15$ setup fee... that would keep soot out of your oil and prolong the life of the oil & motor..
 
When I rebuit the Poly head 318 in the 59 W100 Power Wagon, I used the old pistons, they fit the bores nicely with a feeler gauge alongside the pistons, but, I went with .010 over size on the rings, then trimmed the end gaps to specs. The cylinders were slick and smooth with a very slight scuff in one cylinder. I cleaned up that scuff with some 400 grit paper and installed the pistons/rings without honing the cylinders. that engine only smoked on the initial startup and has not used a drop of oil and it has not let out one puff of smoke since. I just had to experiment with a suggestion My very old and wise ex shop foreman had told Me.
Why would You want to mess up that perfectly machined surface by honing it. LOLOLOL
Now, would not suggest anyone else try this, unless it is at Your own risk, but, if You do, do not come crying to me if it dont work out for You. LOLOLOL
 
If grind the block +0.02 in (0.5mm) then the volume will increase by3.96cu. in (63 cu.sm)
395 cu in +3.96 =399 cu.in.
 
What is it? Magnetic powder showed no heterogeneity.
This is the infamous 8th cylinder ...
 

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Is that ring gap with the used ring or a new one?
I agree with Twisted Steel 100%. Get a new set and have the second ring made into a gapless ring. Well worth the cost.

If the magnaflux shows nothing, you should be fine. Just keep those temps down and it will live a long time. Hummers went to the spin on balanced flow designed waterpump in 1998 if I remember correctly. Make sure to use that waterpump not the 4 bolt style. If you aren’t familiar with the set up- let us know. I can walk you through the changes needed.
Hummers ate cylinders 8 and 7 more often than pickups because of the worse design in radiator angle and airflow.
 
5 kmile ago I changed the pump because it flowed from the drain.
I bought a new one on ebay for $ 50
 
if close the bypass on the pump that goes to the thermostat? all water should only go through the lower pipe, pumping water through the engine
 
Depending what thermostat crossover you have, it may need replacement. Two options:
A single thermostat that has a block of part, not the single that does jot block off.
Or
Dual thermostat crossover. This one requires a bypass restriction fitting.

then the proper waterpump which only has one heater hose instead of two like the 4 bolt pump.

then the other heater hose that used to go to the even side of the water pump now ties in to the lower radiator hose in the metal tube portion.
Later I will dig up pictures for you, but you have a ways to go before that part.

the different waterpump requires a different fan clutch and fan. Options there to.
 
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