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Time for new IP?

NVW

NVW

Well-Known Member
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Location
Castor, AB.
My 98 has run perfect for three years, the gfi tripped at -30C a few times and it fired up with little smoke. I know it tripped when the timer cut in.

This spring it smoked grey for a second then would clear up, it started to buck at certain speeds but would run perfect at others, I suspected the APP, changed out with no luck. It started to get much worse so I thought maybe bad fuel or a plugged filter. I opened the water drain and got a bunch of wax out of it, likely Biodiesel.

First off I changed the fuel filter. blew back into the tank and took off the IP fuel inlet and made sure the screen was clear, still no good. The truck would run but smoke grey and would accelerate at low rpms, if you stepped on it it would just rev to 2000-2500 rpm and not upshift.

I tried known good PMD's with no luck, I pulled an OS off an engine that is on my engine stand that was running well and changed it out, no go. It was progressively getting worse, then sometimes it ran almost normal with good acceleration. I then took the CPS off the spare engine with still no luck, but the smoke was pretty much gone with smooth running. It will only rev to 1000 to 1500 rpms, it varies every time I run it. I next tried the ecm from the donor truck, still no change. It idles well but will not rev up, I'm thinking the armature or something in the IP is effed. It has had an occasional fishbite since I rebuilt it. It is the IP that came with this truck

IMG_0531.JPG
 
It's 70 above :), maybe some ahole jer*ed off in my tank :D

I don't get that anymore when I run the drain, also all grounds have been cleaned.
 
No, but there is a good flow, in case anyone wonders, the black specks on the bottle are likely welding dust off my table.
 
I had unplugged the old ones and it would start after extended cranking, it still ran like crap then.
 
No real change, but when I re-connected the cps it ran almost normal. Then after a restart it ran like crap. The new cps runs better without missing or smoke. Also there is no air in fuel.

One other thing is there is vacuum to the wastegate, but there is no black smoke at WOT, no excess fuel is being delivered. It always seemed to be an electrical issue. Miss timing, or some such thing. Why I suspected the cps or the OS or ecm.

FSOS pulls in fully as well

When it got bad, it ran like an OBD1 motor does when you put it in Time Set, why I suspected the OS or CPS
 
Never been in limp mode, the trans would only shift at low rpms or if you let off the throttle. I was thinking of a battery disconnect again tomorrow to see if it would reset things.
 
NVW said:
Never been in limp mode, the trans would only shift at low rpms or if you let off the throttle. I was thinking of a battery disconnect again tomorrow to see if it would reset things.
Click to expand...
It probably will not. Only thing I found to eliminate old DTCs is a scan tool of sorts. Even the simples cheapest one will work.
I use a basic scan tool that connects through wifi to My phone. That tool is compact so I pack it in the jockeybox.
 
That looked like water mixed in to me. The wax is paraffin trying to mix back in. When the paraffin count is high the slightest amount of water absorbs into it. This keeps the paraffin at a thicker level than the rest and it cant blend like it normally does.

When there is no water present (really rare since alcohols are in all of it now) the wax is slightly yellow.

This presence of wax can be tested by separating the white stuff from the fuel, then in a closed container so no evaporation can occur, let it settle a couple days. Then put in the freezer a couple days. When it comes out there would be ice formed separately from basically candle wax. In refining the plastics to fuel, my friend Jason and I called it cancer candles. If instead of freezing it, you separate the white stuff from the fuel and get it to light on fire (takes some effort) it will burn a long time with a descent amount of smoke. If you can not get it to light even with a torch, it is just water emulsified into the fuel.

This is one of the times it may be good to bypass the tank and filter, use a 1 gallon gas tank with some fresh diesel and 911 at highest ratio and have it just feed the ip directly. Burn about 1/8 gallon just idle and revving engine.
The wax can coat components and mess with them. I doubt this would “fix” the issues you are having, but it may be contributing. Getting any water trapped in the ip out of there could be a good thing.
Then do it again but instead of 911 mixed in, use ATF mixed in. This will “wash” it clean with the petroleum detergents, and is a good lube.

If you want to rig a long hose and a spare lift pump from the bed of the truck and actually drive it you could, just use caution about allowing the line to suck air.
 
I have fuel conditioner, ATF and antigell in my fuel right now. When I use the water drain I no longer get that crap in my sample, I don't doubt the IP is gummed up. The inlet screen was clean, I thought it would be plugged off.

Not much time to mess with it now, I'll keep you all informed.
 
I would first run a HIGH dose of your favorite diesel injector cleaner or sea foam in a jug of new fuel, several jugs maybe..

let the return line dump back into the same jug, if the IP has that stuff in it the injectors will also...

Anything before a purchase would be my path first... I'm guessing you have confirmed timing and such is good...
 
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