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Stuck brass seat in carb

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
4,706
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515
Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Thread starter #1
Hey all,

IDK what section to put this in, but I am working on a little yard tractor, 18 hp sears with a 2cyl. Briggs.

I have been having flooding issues after dragging the mower out from 3 year storage I forgot to drain the fuel, but I used plenty of additive, and so the carb was actually quite clean.

So, I finally got a rebuild kit, and it comes with a new needle and seat. according to the manual, the seat needs to be flush with the body, and so that is part of my issue, old one is deeper, could very well be why its flooding.

So, I follow manual instructions roughly, it says I need to use a 1/4 inch self tapping bolt as a puller.

So I find a 1/4 x 1 inch self tapping bolt, thread a nut onto it, and use a brass compression fitting to fit over the hole to still allow the seat to come up, but to spread out the force and not hurt the carb body. The manual wants a little spacer from a fuel tank, but I cant find one on any of the parts engines.

I am only running the bolt in about 1/4 inch before I run out of threads, and it turns very tight.

after tightening down the nut and pulling the bolt out of the seat a few times, I gave up. I hosed it down in penetrating oil and put it in the freezer, thinking that expanding and contracting at different rates, the penetrating oil might soak in.

Do I need a longer bolt, and if so, do I need to be threading it in till it bottoms out in the seat? I am scared it will hurt the carb if I do this.

Worse case, is this a very common issue that a seasoned briggs shop should be able to easily handle? I might be better off hiring this one done.
 

schiker

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,435
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557
Location
Pendleton, SC
#2
So screw threads are pulling out of soft brass and seat is still stuck? Pic might help. What is behind seat ? I guess at least a passage so bottoming out a tip probably won't hurt unless you go to far through. Might even blunt a tip at least as dull as hole through seat???

How much meat is left to the seat? Do you have a drill you could drill in about as far as you are screwing and thin it up a little so you can hook /pry it out with. If it is sealed in might heat it up if there is some "glue" on it ????? Easier said than done but think you could super glue the screw puller into the seat without gluing the seat into the carb? Just a tiny dab to help it hold. Note I keep a pack of those little one time use super glues around for weird stuff like this or holding a nut somewhere I can't get to for assembly purposes.

What does a new carb cost? I am a cheap scape but sometimes if a rebuild is not significantly cheaper I just buy a new carb especially for small engine stuff.

Can you pressurize the port from other direction to help push it out with an air nozzle from air compressor?
 

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Messages
4,706
Likes
515
Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Thread starter #3
correct. threads pulling out soft brass, rest of seat wont come.

Basically its an aluminum bore in the carb, and an angled passage connects to it at the base. so essentially its a blind hole that intersects with a drilled passage.

This particular seat has a bottom with a drilled hole (what the rubber tipped needle seals against) so essentially its shaped alot like a used 22LR shell, just without the flange and with a hole in the end.
 

schiker

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,435
Likes
557
Location
Pendleton, SC
#5
I don't know what I might do just depends on what is available to work with. Sounds like you had a good plan and figure you are handy just different ideas and thoughts.

Last ditch efforts....
Might try and claw it out after drilling some meat out. Dremel might work better slow and easy. Holding it in vise and or cutting a piece of wood down for a wedge to pry against and protect carb. Tape up a washer or socket for same purpose. If something can't fit in vise I have C clamped it to 2x12. Might even mount it to a piece of wood then clamp wood down on work bench???? Getting stupid any other screw similar size dry wall or wood screw after mounting carb to something blocking it all up pull it out like a nail????
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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7,296
Location
Boulder City Nv
#6
On big stuff, many times Ive done liquid nitrogen to freeze insde item to make it smaller. You might get the inside to shrink by using an upside down can of keyboard cleaner spraying onto it.
 

Twisted Steel Performance

Formerly: sctrailrider
Vendor
Messages
1,761
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1,473
Location
Pauline, SC
#7
Just went through this with a b/s motor, car wasn't fixable, the ethanol in today's gas eats the seats, tried a kit & still flooded the motor.. new carb, 95$ fixed it... shop told me the bottom seat can't be replaced even tho the bottom came with the kit...
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
Messages
8,079
Likes
7,296
Location
Boulder City Nv
#8
working at small engine shops, doing extensive rebuilds usually isn't cost effective for thm to do. $45 kit plus 2 hours labor pays for a new carb.


 
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