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Slightly concerned

6

6.5baby

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Hiya everyone!! This is my first 6.5, but, i have owned 2 6.2s(that i loved) and i really do love my truck.
About my truck:
1995 chevy 3500 4 door dually
Choo choo conversion(ugly paint job, lowered, full ground effects, real ram air hood, and epic alum wheels)
6.5 diesel
4L80e trans
4:56 rear(thpught 4:10 at first until i checked it out completely)

While i love my potato(slow, fat, ugly), i am having a few issues.

I replaced the whole fuel filter assembly(new ac delco)
PMD relocated/replaced
New custom(i built) + battery cables(2g)
New ground wires
2 new batteries
LP and GP are on toggles(ops and gp relay bypassed)
Manual waste gate
Vaccum pump removed
IP replaced right before i got the truck from org owner(truck had 118k and now has 123k)

I am throwing codes for the first time in the almost year i have had it. I know what the codes are, i just dont understand why they suddenly showed up(i did jave a pretty major fuel leak filling the valley because of the fuel filter assembly) and my ac compressor(new) shredding half the belt because the clutch froze up(replaced the belt, ac compressor, and tension pulley). The service engine light came on(cruise kicked off) and i pulled over imed. and shut off the ac. Saw the belt half shredded, drove home(1/2 mile), replaced the belt, tension pulley, ac compressor and still had codes. Relocated the pmd, fixed my fuel leak, replaced or cleaned all grounds, replaced the + cables with 2g, and i still have codes. Side note: the truck runs amazing now once it decides to start(new issue as well that showed up with the codes). Fuel pressure, oil pressure, and temp are all good. I do run 2 stroke in the fuel for added lube since they decided to take it all out of the fuel with their bs ultra low sulfur(truck rattles horribly without the 2 stroke, is super quiet and smooth with it. I only add about 6 ounces per full tank and i use penzoil marine because she likes it better...lol)

Im kinda stuck because the codes make no sense(since quiet a few are for bypassed systems and never showed up before).

Thanks in advance for any help!!
 
Cleared codes and only 2 actually remain, 19 and 29. 29 i understand because the relay is bypassed. Not sure what a crankshaft position reference fault(19) is though. Does it mean i need to replace the cps?
 
6.5baby said:
Choo choo conversion(ugly paint job, lowered, full ground effects, real ram air hood, and epic alum wheels)

While i love my potato(slow, fat, ugly), i am having a few issues.

Im kinda stuck because the codes make no sense(since quiet a few are for bypassed systems and never showed up before).
Click to expand...

We can debate about Ugly all day long, but, paint don't make it go fast.

Now the first code you need to fix is the damn short. Every other code is a clue as to what may be shorted, but, it's like calling tech support for a black monitor on your PC when the power is out. When a 5V ECM bus gets shorted several sensors can also "fail" as they no longer get the shared 5v. So they also report a failure code that's really just a power failure from the short.

19 Crankshaft position reference fault
29 Glow plug relay fault
57 PCM 5 volt shorted
62 Turbocharger boost sensor circuit low
78 Turbocharger wastegate solenoid fault

The codes in bold matter. 57 is major. The clues are the wiring to the CPS 19, crank sensor, and 62 MAP on the intake manifold. Inspect the wiring for wearing through, shorts, etc.

No reason to bypass the glow plug relay or the lift pump OPS as there are better ways to go about it. A tune can do anything you want with glow plug time. It can also knock out turbo codes from the spring wastegate.

GO fast ... I happen to have some parts for sale that will smoke the tires and have that Choo choo pull like a freight train.

6.5L - A Team Turbo, Yank 2400 RPM stall triple disc. Used

Performance package combo! Keeps the ATT turbo in it's RPM band so you always have boost available. The Yank Converter locks up solid when you don't need full power. Lug it down to 35 MPH where the stock TCC slips. 1) A Team Turbo: Includes oil drain pipe and intake silicone boots. 2) Yank...
www.thetruckstop.us


No excuses anymore to call a 6.5 or 6.2 slow!!!
.
 
I didnt bypass the gp or ops, but, i did rewire the bypass with better wire...lol. after i cleared the codes, all that was left was 19 and 29. Pulled the crank sensor out and i guess when the belt shredded a little it cut 2 of the 3 wires for the crank sensor. Getting a new one so that will solve that problem. If i hit the switch for the gp before turning the key to run, i only have 19(figured that out by accident...lol).

The paint job....well, its black faded into gold. Eventually it will be pearl white faded i to 73 porsche royal purple...lol.

Im going to eventually regear the 4:56 with 3:73 or 3:90. I dont really need it to pull anything except the tractor once in a while if sour cream(96 chevy 3500 vortec 454) is down. I dont really want speed out of it either(faster than 52@2500 would be nice though...lol).

Might sound stupid, but, i love my truck and plan to show it some day. I got it from the org owner that used it only to pull his cattle trailer from pasture to pasture. 100% no rust anywhere, 95% perfect interior, 123k on it now. It is just like me, short, fat, slow, ugly, and a workhorse....rofl hence the name potato

Pics are the potato next to sour cream and the potato with tater tot next to it....lolFB_IMG_1588651069708.jpgFB_IMG_1588651082110.jpgFB_IMG_1588651099379.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome. Follow above, they are leading you right. The clear line is #1 check according to Gm and Stanadyne. Go to any hardware store and buy one foot of 1/4” clear tubing. Get a couple screw style hose clamps to fit at same time. You’ll be in it about $5. Replace the rubber line out the front of the ip in the upside down ‘U’ shape. You’ll only use half the clear line, save that half for a few years down the road when you have to replace it since it will yellow and harden. Any issues- watch for bubbles. When you see bubbles flowing you have issues to chase. No bubbles = ok.

Later on after these issues are solved get a fuel pressure gauge on there you can read while driving that is tapped at the ip inlet. No incoming fuel pressure ruins the injection pump. Also a great diagnostic tool when issues pop up.

Nice lookin truck- I like dropped dually for on street use.
 
Welcome to the Forum. Good looking truck. I see you found the cause for the CPS code. Chasing an issue there myself so figured your belt breaking apart might be the cause. Rock Auto is still a good source for parts that the local shops don’t carry. Especially electrical connectors if you’re snapping off retention clops. Wanting to show it off in the future and all, there’s no extra points for matching zip ties holding things together.
 
I do love my truck. I get tons of looks when she is out and about. Everyone here has lifted 4x4s or stock duallys, im pretty much the only one in town with a potato...lol. i intend to yank the motor, have it cleaned and a light rebuild(rings, bearings, overhead, marine injectors, new turbo, ect). I will be replacing the entire harness eventually, because as you said, matching zip ties dont get extra points....lol. i was shocked yesterday when putting her on the ramps to remove the cps(only way to get under it...lol). She actually rolled a little coal....rofl. surprised and delighted me seeing her belch a little black smoke for the first time...lol. im guessing she is happy with a freshly sealed fuel system, a cleaned upper and lower intake, a new pmd, and new heavy cables....lol
 
Thanks snarl95!!!

jmjnet, i found aftermarket housings on amazon. I try to keep ac delco whenever i can.
 
Having driven both the 4.10's and the 3.73's I would recommend the 4.10's. The AC is on high, the cooling fan is locked in and that's a heavy truck to get moving. I say this a lot: this engine doesn't have the HP to back up the TQ at low RPM. No joy in lugging the damn thing. It's a high speed diesel and GM forgot that with an asthma attack turbo. That said I did tach out the 93 of mine with 4.10's in the CA fast lane and was still getting my doors blown off. Really the speedo wasn't reading numbers anymore so I had no idea how fast it really was.

There is no such thing as a quick and dirty rebuild on these engines. If it's running LEAVE IT ALONE! No shop is going to re-use a block with cracked mains. Likely you have some head cracks as well. It's best to simply not know because the odds on these throwaway engines to be able to be rebuilt is not real high. You are money ahead to simply throw a new Optimizer long block in it by the time the rebuild cost is in.

Now one can do an "overhaul" and that is simply replacing the rings, not touching the main bolts to prevent further cracking, and maybe new cam bearings.

One thing not mentioned: Get rid of that 6 blade fan and old fan clutch ASAP. Get the newer 9 blade steel fan or Duramax fan and new low temp fan clutch. Maybe replace the water pump with an updated balanced flow thread on pump for the best cooling upgrade. Also remove the engine oil cooler and clean the mat of debris out from behind it on the condenser. 210 is REDLINE temp on these engines: anything over that cracks start and rings start blowby.
 
my truck never goes over 190(between 185-190). Oil cooler, trans cooler, and radiator have been cleaned.

I do want to do a minimal rebuild(rings and bearings) and run an overhead for the simple fact that i want to reseal the motor before i clean and repaint it. It will be coming out to reseal it and replace the wiring harness, paint the engine compartment, ect. I also dont use shops(unless i have to machine something and even then i usually run the machines because of friends). I really do appreciate the advice :) it will be years before the truck is done(im just now learning how to do body work, not that my truck needs much besides some glass on the fenders). By the time the body is done, im most likely to replace the engine(ill keep the org so i can tear it down and rebuild it).

For now, she will remain the potato....rofl
 
I agree with studs instead buying new bolts since they are tty.
If the main webs are cracked, you might just do rings and rod bearings having never removed the crank as to not disturb existing damage. But if it is all coming apart and you are spending the cash, might as well spend a couple dollars extra for the arp studs.

And if doing new rings- get the gapless done.

While everything is ripped apart, cam bearings are the main point of low oil pressure.

If you don’t get anything else coated in the engine, do the bearings. The rest of the world is slowly catching on and coated bearings for more popular engines are available from the bearing mnfrs, but not for ours yet.
 
When the tine to yank her heart out, i will def stud her!! Thanks for the great advice!

I do have another question. I replaced the crank sensor and all codes went away except 19, 29(relay is baypassed so i dont care), 78(vaccumn pump is off and it has a manual wastegate so not worried) and i have a new code....34. The ses light comes and goes now(12 mile drive easy to hard push) and it came and went under dif situations, i.e. let off throttle ses out, on throttle ses on, accel ses off, let off ses on, floor it ses off, drive conservative ses on, stop completely ses off. Cruise still works perfect again and the truck has more power and starts really quick again. Question is, why do i still have code 19 when it was jist replaced(ac delco 213-337) and why do i now have code 34(stepper motor fault)? Im being reminded of why i hate fuel injection and computerized motors!
 
Strike my last post....lol. i restarted the truck after clearing the codes and no more ses!!! Only codes now are 29 and 78 so no more actual problems....lol im so happy the potato is a good running potato again!!!!
 
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