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Revitalizing my Hummer

Will L.

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Location
Boulder City Nv
Need help on finding some stuff, so anyone please jump in with any info, links, or prices.
Also don’t hesitate to ask any questions, but you guys know nothing will be a short response- haha.

I have to find a factory style harmonic balancer- you cant spin balance with a dynamic balancer. Gave away my one with 70,000 on it to a guy in need, and loaned him my remover/installer tool and just wanted him to guve me back my tool and his old balancer. Oops. Might need a junkyard trip or something, can’t believe I don’t have one laying around still.

I need to recover my seats. Its tan leather right now. I can go back to that or do something custom, like diamond patrern center and two tone. But need to know the cost, if available, for factory style covers. Love to here input or see pics.

My interior is tan on the plastic and I like the job a few guys did here with that spray can paint system. Can someone give links to that, or a lead where to chase down all the stuff?
Any other options besides rhino lining?

My engine is out and all apart. New 18.5:1 Pistons are machined and being Diamondeyze, and tricoated next. Just ordered the gapless rings from Leroy.
Crank going in tomorrow or Friday for polishing. Then I can get the bearings all in and sized to a .001:1 fit. I will get them close as possible through select fit combos. Then the back filler coatings will most likely be needed to get them exact. That is on the tight side if the bearings weren’t coated and if running conventional 40wt. But with the coatings that will be great and the tribodyne oil she will be perfect for a few hundred thousand miles. Soon to order the aftermarket valve springs, might coat them, valves and precups also. Swapping optimizer precups out for my set of diamonds btw. Going to port my heads, hopefully I can near mimic Nate’s successful job on that part.

Once all that coating is done, the entire rotating assembly is going into the machine shop for balance. Folks side note for those that don’t know. These engines are not well balanced from factory, and is under $300. Crazy smart investment.

More to come...
 
3 shops to see local about the dimple core radiator, and would like to find a price I can afford on the new style a/c condenor, but afraid I might have to stick with the factory one. Entire stack will get tltd coating, and hopefully heater core and evaporater too. Heater core was bad from previous owner- times up! The evaporator might get replaced with one of the two bus units I have. I’ll post pics on that later, but is is so huge I wouldn’t bother to coat it. It would replace the rear unit is far larger than both evaporators combined. I need all new compressor, orings and a dryer and belt for the system too.

That will be happening while the next load of coatings goes to Chris for coatings. Leroy’s time keeper set, both ip gears, and will consider the two main seals coated as well. A new hv oil pump might get a little working over and then send the gears and housing for coatings. Gonna play with the old pump some first. Coatings themselves should do all it needs, but worth trying an idea first.

I have all new ball joints and shocks to go in that’s been on the shelf for years. But I need all new bushings and would like to find NOS front winch springs, unless there’s a screamin sell somewhere haha.

Still more to go like turbo, 4” exhaust, finish my slantback, then paint. And to fit the bigger turbo and exhaust the body needs to go up from worn bushing n/a height to hopefully a 2” lift. If anyone can post links to diy lift, that would help. I have no clue what all gets changed out or adjusted.

Funny part is $8k is it. Can’t see how that will work out, but hopefully my 6.5 and hummer Carma kicks in. So you all can see why I could really use help on any deals out there.

Thanks!
 
ak diesel driver said:
What are your plans for the pump?
Click to expand...
Ip or oil pump?
Ip:
For now, just cranking the fuel screw because the ip can outrun the turbo easy enough. When I added the turbo I sent the pump to Scott @ J&S diesel a local shop and Scott was the hero behind my crazy pumps back in the day. This one just got a once over to make sure everything is happy.
If I can get a big boy turbo, then crank the screw full and cross my fingers it gets enough. Between it and those German Bosch 303 injectors I have to do still. Otherwise rob a bank for a new modified pump.

Oil pump:
So I spoke to Rene a guy at Melling tech for a second time in the last 5 years. He has been there since 1984 btw. He can’t give the actual cut sheet but can hit a few points on the charts to get an understanding.
The “turbo/squirter/high volume” depending which company it is being relabeled for, and Melling makes them all, is ID as the taller one with the spacer between the pump and end plate. This is for the Melling #255-294s. Not the smaller M55i.

First, this is the only pump made by them. There was one company that added 2 other relief springs with it for you to “adjust” your pressure. Anyone know who that is? Melling never did.

Couple specs from Melling:
At 800 rpm 25 psi
At 2000 rpm 90 psi and 3.76 GPM
That is when the bypass is supposed to kick in but spec is highest of 94 psi.

So this isn’t a shabby pump.

What I wanted to do is clean up the port connections in the pump, and into the engine. Like heads getting a gasket match job.
Not. Sure what else I can do in there, not a lot to them. Coating the straight cut gears would obviously help. Gonna talk to Chris @Twisted Steel Performance about oil pump coating opinions. That is one I have never done. But i think less drag on the gears can’t be bad.

That maxed out 90psi is what killed my decision on the cf mounted to the engine unless it gets a small dedicated pump. It takes 100 psi to get 0.1 um out.
 
I was talking about your oil pump.
I thought I remembered you saying your IP pump guy wasn't around anymore?
 
Yes on all accounts.

1. He died about a year’s after doing my pump the last time.

2. Yes these engines bleed oil inside. All the more reason a dry sump would be amazing. Also why getting the bearing specs in snug really helps and how come gm says 8psi idle is ok. Scary part is 8psi measure in the middle if the valley means how much is getting to your side mounted turbo sucking oil from the end of the line... gm chose all the wrong spots for gauges, sensors, etc. a volume regulated feed from the oil cooler line to the turbo would be awesome. Second best would be middle of the valley feeding turbo and gauge should read front of right head where it would be the lowest. Imo.

3. I am sure when a person changes oil weight that has affect on how much and how far the oil gets squirted from the nozzle to the piston, and clyinder wall when piston is out of the way.
 
Most oil psi is lost around the bearings, cam being #1 loss, then mains then rods.. tightening up the clearances along with a dry film lubricant will greatly increase pressure and the life of bearings..

@Will L. , coating the oil pump gears & inside wall reduces friction and increases gear life..
 
Just wondering if I am way down the list on people who have done the 6.5 oil pump. Get the feeling I am not the first. We both know there is a couple p400 already done. Haha

We know all the big boys in racing do their pumps. I wonder if there was any info saying 2hp gain for bbc for instance. Hmm.
 
I have a provent 200 sitting on the shelf. No clue where I am gonna fit it, or if I am going to use the auto drain feature or repour as needed.
If I can Do the body lift, then I will have more room to fit it.

Also if I put in a large turbo I will have to add a drain hose down to the pan, and I might be able to tie the auto drains from the pro vent into that.

Another variable is wanting two lines into the low area of the pan below oil level to be able to hook up an external centrifuge.

I do have a brand new cdr for turbo engine on a shelf. No need for that one anymore.
 
There are plenty of instructional videos available on internet focused on revitalizing your hummer. Just saying.
 
Yeah, several vids of hummer getting done up. None getting major engine, suspension, interior and body upgraded for under $25,000, let alone $10,000.

Most hummer guys put almost $10,000 into just the interior.
The upgraded turbo, injectors,tune, cac, complete exhaust kit is over $10,000.

Will I get it all done at that price? Doubt it. But that is why I am asking for input on things to call me into check on what’s most important, and to ask for help on things. Like...

There has been 3 people offer to ship me old harmonic balancers if I pay shipping costs. One will be on it’s way soon and the others know I shouldn’t need to borrow their old/ spare units at this point. So $20 shipping vs $100 purchase saved me some there.

I know there is a bunch of into out there, much I have seen in the past but can’t remember where. So things like FT putting the link he did - I have probably read everything in each category over the last 15 years owning this rig, but he saved me a couple hours searching- as I am the worst in the world at searching online.

Then this can serve as a build thread for my hummer too. And it’s discombobulated manner it will go-tends to fit me-Haha
 
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