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RedHead steering box

I am thinking about flushing the system before I install. Anyone got any tips? Also thinking about some sorta inline filter
 
IIRC, Rock auto sells inline filters for the PS system.

IDk how you want to flush it, but I hook up to the return port on the brake booster, and pump the brakes till there is noise (keep a hand on the key, so you can have it make noise for as little time as possible, as I am sure it isnt good for it) I did this once, hoping it would fix my weak brake issue, but it didnt. This method keeps from dragging tires back and forth, but you might turn lock to lock just once during the flush to get everything out of that part of the circuit, versus just the braking portion of the PS pump circuit.

I will do it again before changing it, because IMO, unless it locks up or knocks, I shouldnt be getting much for contaminants in the system, so if i flush it a few times, then change the part, the new part is entering life in a freshly flushed system, rahter than circulating some shitty fluid as you flush it at install time. so: flush it once or twice before, and once after, a little more costly, but should give longer service life IMO.
 
got my steering box now just need to find the time
 

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The way I flushed my PS fluid is I put the front end on jack stands, then I pulled the return hose off of the brake booster (it is the forward line that had a hose clamp on it) and put a 5' long 5/16" fuel line on and ran it into a bucket. Then, I took a turkey baster and stuck a 6" length of the same hose on the end and sucked out all of the PS fluid from the reservoir. I refilled it with clean fluid. I started the truck and mashed down on the brake and release a couple of times, then I turned the wheel all the way to one side and then all the way to the other. I listened for the squealing of the PS pump and immediately shut off the engine, then refilled the PS reservoir. I repeated this until the SP fluid came out of the hose clean. Took nearly a gallon of PS fluid.
 
Hmm, never thought of putting in-line filter on the PS. I can definitely see the benefits. I've never used Magnefine before, though.
 
So I finally got around to changing the steering box. What a PIA!!!! Actually changing the box wasn't bad it was trying to take the pitman arm off of the draglink or whatever it's called on IFS. I was trying to save it since it was relatively new. I ruined one nut and had to chase the threads on the pitman arm and finally had to borrow a better air hammer than my cheapee. Ruined the second nut but it finally came off. Now all that's left is to see if I can move the steering shaft a couple of splines to line up the steering wheel, but I suspect I'll have to get an alignment to get it right on.
 

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What I find interested is that when I did mine a few weeks ago, both the pitman arm and the shaft on the gear box were keyed ... meaning the pitman arm could only be installed one way. Well, I guess it could be installed incorrectly, but the pitman arm would be 90* off.
 
x2
OrionThade said:
What I find interested is that when I did mine a few weeks ago, both the pitman arm and the shaft on the gear box were keyed ... meaning the pitman arm could only be installed one way. Well, I guess it could be installed incorrectly, but the pitman arm would be 90* off.
Click to expand...
 
Mine just had splines and moving one spline over made mine off the other direction so I adjusted the tierods close using a tape and 2x4 and drove it in for an alignment.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Mine just had splines and moving one spline over made mine off the other direction so I adjusted the tierods close using a tape and 2x4 and drove it in for an alignment.
Click to expand...

I couldn't see the inside of the steering shaft but it felt like there was a flat spot on the inside. Mines off maybe 20*
 
ak diesel driver said:
sure looks like a flat spot
Click to expand...

My experience with swapping a GM column into my FJ40 was that the column and clamp on the box will only go together one way. The shaft will have a notch in it that corresponds with the bolt that goes through the clamp. It can go together one way only.

I've also worked with some of the Double D joints. If my memory is correct they can go together either way at 180* difference.

Don
 
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