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Rear heat and ac lines.

Lawdawg#1

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Replaced my rear heat and ac lines. Deleted the quick connects. Lubed the hose with some transmission fluid and heated the hose with a heat gun to soften the rubber. Once I got it over the hump in the aluminum line it went fine. I looked at the connects with a Barb but they’re still plastic and $15 a piece so I jet did away with them. Also soldered up some tees for under the hood to do away with those plastic fittings as well.
 

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There was just recently a post about drilling a cap to replace the restrictor in the plastic T.

I believe a 5/8 pex T was used. I also used 5/8 pex barbs for the parts of the T that have 5/8 hose.
 
There was just recently a post about drilling a cap to replace the restrictor in the plastic T.

I believe a 5/8 pex T was used. I also used 5/8 pex barbs for the parts of the T that have 5/8 hose.
I saw Home Depot has the pex fitting already to go online. Of course after I sweated it together.
 
There was no restriction in the plastic tee removed.
Was it oem?

It may have been replaced with an aftermarket already.

Or I'm just remembering wrong.

Once you use the rear heat you will know if it is an issue.
Not hard to get to. So, no big deal.

I know people have had issues bleeding the air out of the rear sometimes.
There's probably a thread here somewhere
 
I honestly don't think the WP has enough push to get the air out of both cores. Though in the winter time I don't notice a difference in the heat output in my (front only) truck, when I accelerate I hear all kinds of gurgling noises from the heater core. something I have never done, but there is a Tee adapter they make that allows you to connect a garden hose to one of the heater hoses. it goes inline on one hose, it's made to flush out the system, but possibly can be used to flush out air
 
Don’t bother fighting it. Buy the mightyvac mv4525 or a better one and eliminate all the issues.
I still haven’t made a video showing how to use it- but if you want to see a painfully bad video describing it- I suggest raising speed on video to get through it w/ less pain.

 
If you decide to pull the coolant tank off the firewall to flush, you'll be at aww of the amount of 💩 that comes out of the bottom! I pulled mine a while back trying to flush the system and boy my jaw dropped! I literally had a small mound of gritty brown muck on the ground.
 
The OEM SUPPLY Tee DOES have a flow restrictor to the front heater core. The OEM RETURN Tee does NOT! Either you were looking at the wrong Tee, @Lawdawg#1, or somebody previously put the wrong (Return) Tee in the Supply line. The whole point of the flow restrictor in the Supply Tee is to divert enough hot coolant to the rear heater core. If you notice, the rear nipple is at a 90° to the flow path from the crossover supply line to the front core supply. That, combined with the long run to the rear core and back, if I did Bournelli's Law rough calulations in my head correctly, means that about 90-95% of the flow goes to the front core. Which means on a cold day, with the heat loss from the rear supply line on the way back to the rear core, you MIGHT get warmish 45° air from the rear vents when it's set to Max Temp and Hi Fan - in which case why bother with "Rear Heat" when all the heat is coming from the front core/vents anyway, let the middle and rear passenger freeze their rears off, you're warm and comfy up front!
 
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