Preparing full rebuild 1995 1500 truck Moog or & where to purchase?

[Crankme69]

Going to do 4 ball joints, 4 tie rods, idler & pitman arms & all upper / lower control arm bushings including the rears. Am I missing anything?

I'm planning to go with Moog for the parts unless someone has a better suggestion?

Where to purchase it all from?

I plan to get a quotes from my local Advance & Carquest suppliers.

I also plan to check delivered price from Rock using the discount.

TIA
Greg

 

[btfarm]

Get NAPA prices too. I think they're more likely to have a full line of Moog parts.
How's the gearbox? Stabilizer bushings and links?

 

[tanman_2006]

I want to use energy suspension next time i do my front end. MOOG has good stuff though.

I used Rockauto for mine a couple years ago, with the site discount shipping is almost free. 10% off usually


EDIT: just reread and saw you were already going to check Rockauto.

 

[Crankme69]

The other bushings & links look OK. The gearbox is what I was questioning a year or so ago, gonna have to see how this tightens things up Mike before I can say for sure.

Yea I am gathering prices now...Thanks!

 

[GM Guy]

From What I understand, Moog and Energy Suspension are the top pics for re-doing everything in the front end.

also, Energy sells cab mounts and leaf spring bushings. IIRC, they offer it in an complete kit, tip to tail.

 

[Crankme69]

Ok a little feed back on the front end.

I ended up going with all Moog parts from Rock auto, changed both sides upper & lower ball joints & inner & outer tie rods along with pitman & idler arms.

A hint or 2. spend the 10 bucks for the tie rod sleeve and make sure yr drill bits are sharp...drilling them rivets takes it toll on the bits.

All my control arm bushing look to be in good shape, now I have to take it in for front end alignment, then I will access the steering box.

Much of the slop in the steering wheel has noticeably been eliminated, but I need time in the drivers seat with the trailer behind it before I make final judgement...

 

[someotherguy]

Yep, I bought the tie rod sleeves when I did mine too, they're cheap enough, and you can get the new ones set really close by matching the overall length of the assembly to your old ones.

I did Moog hard parts and Energy Suspension bushings, I went with just urethane, man let me tell you if suspension noise bothers you - go with the polygraphite! Mine is a squeaky mess.

I did the ball joint rivets with the control arms out of the truck, on the drill press. Made them cake. Drilled through the heads then was able to knock them off with one or two easy blows with a chisel then knock the stubs out with a punch just as easily.

Did you remember to grease everything? Was your idler arm new enough stock that it came with the cool extension hose for the top zerk so it can actually be greased without the fan shroud being in the way?

Be sure you follow the correct procedure for adjusting the steering box. Just going after the set screw in the top cover is only part of the adjustment and you can easily cause yourself more headaches if you just attempt adjusting that one screw.

Here are a couple pages from the '94 factory manual regarding steering box adjustment:

http://www.someotherplace.com/info/URM3B1_A2.JPG
http://www.someotherplace.com/info/URM3B1_A3.JPG

Richard

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Yep, I bought the tie rod sleeves when I did mine too, they're cheap enough, and you can get the new ones set really close by matching the overall length of the assembly to your old ones.

I did Moog hard parts and Energy Suspension bushings, I went with just urethane, man let me tell you if suspension noise bothers you - go with the polygraphite! Mine is a squeaky mess.

I did the ball joint rivets with the control arms out of the truck, on the drill press. Made them cake. Drilled through the heads then was able to knock them off with one or two easy blows with a chisel then knock the stubs out with a punch just as easily.

Did you remember to grease everything? Was your idler arm new enough stock that it came with the cool extension hose for the top zerk so it can actually be greased without the fan shroud being in the way?

Be sure you follow the correct procedure for adjusting the steering box. Just going after the set screw in the top cover is only part of the adjustment and you can easily cause yourself more headaches if you just attempt adjusting that one screw.

Here are a couple pages from the '94 factory manual regarding steering box adjustment:

http://www.someotherplace.com/info/URM3B1_A2.JPG
http://www.someotherplace.com/info/URM3B1_A3.JPG

Richard

Heres a write up I did and is in the how to section here. Adjusting the top screw does very little to take up the slack like you say though, the main shaft is where most of teh play comes in.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?21215-adjusting-a-steering-box

 

[GM Guy]

I want to use energy suspension next time i do my front end. MOOG has good stuff though.

I used Rockauto for mine a couple years ago, with the site discount shipping is almost free. 10% off usually


EDIT: just reread and saw you were already going to check Rockauto.

where did you get a 10 percent off deal? recently it seems to only be 5 percent.