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Power steering pump R+R re-using reservior

3500GMC

What T F, over
Messages
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Location
Nashport, Ohio
Well 225k is all my PS pump could take. Lost both PS and PB today going down the road. Had to use the reserve PS and PB.. :eek: It is a failure where the pump SHAFT broke free internally and started to work it's way out. It had the snake belt 1/4 of the way derailed..
Local parts store had a reman (Cardone) part# 20-860 for 38 bucks.. The catch was, I had to swap the reservoir out. No big deal really.
I snapped a few pics during the process with my Not-so-high-tech cell phone. There is a few key things to take into consideration to end up successful.

First you have to remove the two 'stud-bolts' and Pressure Regulator valve. These three fasteners are the only things that keep the res on the actual pump. There will be a nice ring of rust between the pump and res where the BIG oring is. A little penatrant will ease things.

I chose to leave the inside pump to block bracket in place to help facilitate clamping it in a vice. Using a few layers of rags and a prybar I wedged my way around the res to separate it from the pump. A block of wood and a hammer will help too. Don't beat it up! It will start to move. EVENLY.

Clean the rust ring off, clean out the res, locate your new pump and orings. There will be an assortment of 'square cut' orings. 3 thick and 3 thin ones. Use the ones that are 'flush' with the pump housing. There will be two PR valve orings that are std type. One for the PR (big) and one for your PS high pressure line. (small)

Use some grease for the Big oring (already on pump) that seals the res to the pump. The stud bolts are just long enough to start in. Use these two to evenly draw on the res to the pump. Before touchdown, thread in the PR valve and use it to help draw on the rest of the way. Tighten 'em up tight. Reinstall your pulley and to the truck you go.

Hey what do you know, I have my two luxury options back.. :D



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Nice Brad. I did that to a couple of pumps years ago. It would have been 3 but... I ruined the 1st one:eek:
First thing that needs to be done though is use only the proper puller on the pulley.

I'm going to move this to DIY so it can easily be found later.
 
I did one on a 96 vortec 350 a couple weeks ago. Napa loaned me the puller set for $20. I bought the pump with resivoir for $172 and got $156 back on the core. They REALLY want these things back!
 
So you guys know, I am willing to loan my puller to anyone if you pay shipping or pick it up.
 
I had to do this when i replaced my engine. One of those might as well things. I had to buy the puller also.
 
I've done this a couple times because I'm cheap (err broke) but I've got GM parts a plenty! Just have to get the right resivour on the 'good' pump.

Question. How do you know when your pump is bad, if it's not broken? Seems simple enough, but... My 99 drives fine unless I crank the wheel fast/far, then it feels like I've got no power assist. Seems worse at slow speeds and when I'm on the brake. Makes me think the pump is weak after 290K. But I don't remember it being like that before the motor fiasco. Anybody just wore one out before?
 
Question. How do you know when your pump is bad, if it's not broken? Seems simple enough, but... My 99 drives fine unless I crank the wheel fast/far, then it feels like I've got no power assist. Seems worse at slow speeds and when I'm on the brake. Makes me think the pump is weak after 290K. But I don't remember it being like that before the motor fiasco. Anybody just wore one out before?

This one would growl at you if you give the wheel a quick turn brakes or not. At 225k it finally said 'no more' and just quit all at once. Most of 'em just growl all the time.
 
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