I believe the T5 is the blend Ferm. I use both.For a 6.5l rotella 15w40 dino is more than adequite imo. If you do go synthetic, mobil 1 5w40 synthetic is a better oil. Nothing againdt rotella's t6, but it is well documented that it is not a true synthetic, but instead a synthetic blend.
They call the T6 a synthetic, but it has been proven to not use a pure synthetic base stock. It use s a group 3 base which is a synthesized cracked petroleum base stock as I understand it, and not a true synthetic which would be a pure poa base stock. Mobil 1 is a group 4 which is also not pure poa, but a higher quality base stock. So its enough to call it synthetic, even though much of it started life as a dinosaur.I believe the T5 is the blend Ferm. I use both.
The only reason I run synthetic is when I did my swap, I didnt have room for group 78's, so I had to run group 75's. And it spins over a good bit easier with 5w40 than it does 15w40.I have done oil analysis using dino vs. synthetic with a 10K run. The numbers came back very close for each. I went back to regular dino and kept a big chunk of change in my pocket.
Visit my web site and look at the download page, their you will find a independent test performed in Finland. The info in that test is very good. It's the first on the list.One tells opinion synthetic ,,non-synthetic or semi synthetic? Anyway It will be rotella
Hands down the best are synthetic NANO tungsten. Tungsten is now being dry applied on moving parts IMO a GIANT leap ahead of all other oils/lubes.
Consider, AMSOIL can be run to 25k if using bypass filtration I ran it that way in the BURB and actually suspect most all pure synthetics can.Been running synthetic at 5K intervals. I buy based on price and it's typically been Mobil or Valvoline. Not clear it makes a difference. Recently picked up 4 gallons of Valvoline HD Diesel semi-synthetic in the Walmart bargain bin for $8 per gallon. I'll try that for now.
OK, I'm looking into an accumulator for my Cummins and see different thoughts as 'to add oil or not add oil' to the crankcase with the install of one.....a 3 quart accumulator will never see three quarts maybe 1.5 to 2 quarts at best depending on pre-charge pressure.The other things not oil, but related worth mentioning is filter and prelube. Get the wix or napa gold(made by wix). And installing a prelube tank is like buying longer engine life. It gets marketed as helping if you loose oil like an oil cooler hose blows, but only buys you a few seconds- maybe thats enough, maybe not. But start up is when most wear occurs is common knowledge. .
Depends on the powertrain and system.I am a firm believer that synthetic is the way to go
Lets do its own thread.OK, I'm looking into an accumulator for my Cummins and see different thoughts as 'to add oil or not add oil' to the crankcase with the install of one.....a 3 quart accumulator will never see three quarts maybe 1.5 to 2 quarts at best depending on pre-charge pressure.
My concern is excessive crankcase pressure causing leakage at the crank seals and oil blocking the turbocharger oil return causing leakage past the turbo bearing housing seals with any extra oil.