• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

oil cooler problem

reddog

reddog

Member
Messages
103
Reaction score
0
Location
or.
I just rebuilt my 6.5 with a GEP knock off block. While it was still on the stand I pluged the cooler line ports and tried to prime it with a socket and drill. I didn't know I had to loop the cooler ports. While trying to prime it it just built pressure. When I stopped the drill I could hear oil squirting form somewhere in side the block. Instead of looping the ports I just installed it in the truck hooked up the oil lines and tried to prime it again. It built pressure again so I unhooked a cooler line and it was pressurized soooo I unhooked both lines and when I spin the drill I get oil out of both lines:eek:. What the heck is going on? Did I screw something up when I tried to prime it with the ports plugged? I also blocked off the ports for the center mount turbo.
 
I just had a thought, could I have blown out the O rings on the oil filter adapter bolt? Would that cause this condition?
 
You can plug those ports to prime the motor. You should not have hurt anything. Don't know what the problem is, but just to confirm you are turning the drill in the right direction?
 
I'm turning the drill clockwise. I just read some about the bypass valves and I didn't install them in this new block .:mad2: So I guess I yank it back out and pull the pan. Where do these valves go? I got some part #'s for older 6.2 6.5's But not sure about the GEP. does anyone have pictures of the location of these valves? I guess they go under some soft plugs. What's the best way to turn a fully assembled motor upside down.
 
The hole that the bypass goes in is above the oil filter. You shouldn't have to pull the engine or roll over. If I was at home I could take a pic on the bare block in my shop. I'm at work untill 11pm. There is a soft plug that holds it in or seals it. I've never taken one out before. You can see it through one of the cooler ports when it's in there.
 
bk95td said:
The hole that the bypass goes in is above the oil filter. You shouldn't have to pull the engine or roll over. If I was at home I could take a pic on the bare block in my shop. I'm at work until 11pm. There is a soft plug that holds it in or seals it. I've never taken one out before. You can see it through one of the cooler ports when it's in there.
Click to expand...

That's great news do both bypass valves go under the filter adapter?
thanks
 
I believe there is only one. Will have pics before midnight cst.
 
bk95td said:
I believe there is only one. Will have pics before midnight cst.
Click to expand...
I went to the dealer and looked at their diagram and there two ,one for the cooler and one for the filter.I looked under my truck and see where they go so I don't need the pics but thanks for the great info. I'm just so happy I don't have to pull it back out!!!
 
Top of pics is the outside of block.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0538_1.jpg
    IMG_0538_1.jpg
    41.4 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_0539_2.jpg
    IMG_0539_2.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 18
S O S

OK so I got the bypass valves from the dealer and installed them and I'm still building pressure in the cooling lines. I don't have a manual that even mentions these bypass valves much less any instructions on how to install them. The filter bypass just sets in the hole driven in like you would a soft plug but the cooler valve is under a soft plug with a small weep hole in it.Now I pushed the valve clear to the bottom of the hole and tapped it in with the right sized socket then set the plug to the first ridge in the hole. Is this correct? What am I doing wrong? To drive the pump do you turn it clockwise?

HELP !!!!
thanks
 
Still no oil pressure

What am I doing wrong now? I assembled a new motor on a GEP style block. First I left out the oil bypass valves, then I left out the soft plug under the rear main bearing cap, both of these have now been installed and I still can't get oil pressure! What else might I have left out?After two 30 second run times no pressure. How long should it take to get pressure?Are there any other bypass valves? It starts right up and when I had the pan back off to put in the plug there was still a lot of assembly lube in the bearings and oil on the cylinder walls but I don't want to burn it up. Also I checked the turbo oil line after run, no oil.:mad2:
 
How long did you run the oil pump with a drill? to fill the whole block and cooler will take quite a while. Some rebuilders require that you use a pig to pre lube the engine. A pig is a pressurized oil tank connected to the oil cooler line. The engine should be turned over slowly by hand while priming to get oil in all the passages. You should be able to get oil pressure turning over with the starter.
 
How long did you run the oil pump with a drill?

I ran it for about a minute or so it the clock wise direction. I could feel the pump prime its self. I'm just used a socket to prime it and from what I've read that won't get oil to the top end.
 
Yep.Without blocking the oil passages that the oil pump drive blocks the oil won't get everywhere. I made a priming tool out of a extra oil pump drive. Bison claims that a piece of the drain pipe on a sink is the right size to slip in there to block off things enough to get oil to everywhere. Then run with a drill for at least a few minuites to be shure everything is filled. The oil cooler,lines and filter take over 2 quarts to fill. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=10256 This is the primer I made.
 
reddog said:
What am I doing wrong now? I assembled a new motor on a GEP style block. First I left out the oil bypass valves, then I left out the soft plug under the rear main bearing cap, both of these have now been installed and I still can't get oil pressure! What else might I have left out?After two 30 second run times no pressure. How long should it take to get pressure?Are there any other bypass valves? It starts right up and when I had the pan back off to put in the plug there was still a lot of assembly lube in the bearings and oil on the cylinder walls but I don't want to burn it up. Also I checked the turbo oil line after run, no oil.:mad2:
Click to expand...

Are you starting the engine without getting it properly primed?
 
reddog said:
What am I doing wrong now? I assembled a new motor on a GEP style block. First I left out the oil bypass valves, then I left out the soft plug under the rear main bearing cap, both of these have now been installed and I still can't get oil pressure! What else might I have left out?After two 30 second run times no pressure. How long should it take to get pressure?Are there any other bypass valves? It starts right up and when I had the pan back off to put in the plug there was still a lot of assembly lube in the bearings and oil on the cylinder walls but I don't want to burn it up. Also I checked the turbo oil line after run, no oil.:mad2:
Click to expand...

Unless I'm mistaken(its been awhile)IMO,there aint no soft plug in under the rear main bearing cap,putting a plug in the block there would effectively block all oil from getting anywhere,wich might be the reason you hear/feel the pump pressuring up without oil anywhere.
 
bison said:
Unless I'm mistaken(its been awhile)IMO,there aint no soft plug in under the rear main bearing cap,putting a plug in the block there would effectively block all oil from getting anywhere,wich might be the reason you hear/feel the pump pressuring up without oil anywhere.
Click to expand...

No there is a plug that that goes in the vertical bore on the left side under the rear main cap. It goes up in there about 3 inches where there's a shoulder where the bore gets smaller. Just below the installed plug is a cross bore oil galley. Bill Heath said it goes clear in to a dead stop and I'm thinking I didn't set it deep enough, I only set it to the shoulder where the bore gets smaller.
I dropped the front diff to have access to the pan so it only takes an hour or so to check it. Much easier than pulling the motor.
 
Well I pulled the pan again and was able to set the plug a 1/4" deeper but that's not the problem. when I had the pan off the piston wrist pins were dripping with oil and there was oil in the main bearing so I believe I'm getting oil to the lower end. The pump builds pressure,not on the gauge, it takes effort for the drill to turn the pump.There is just something keeping it from the top end and I'm starting to suspect the block off I made for the center mount turbo location
I put two O rings in the recess and put a plate over it, But if the oil return for the center turbo is not a passive return to the pan like the side turbo, but rather goes on to supply the top end then my block off is preventing this.Any thoughts on this theory? I'll call Penninsular tomorrow and ask how they block off the center turbo.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top