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New Guy
- Thread starter Danno J
- Start date
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Nice truck.
I’m not sure where a schematic could be obtained from. It seems that @Jaryd had a schematic for some type of a truck rig that He has for sale. With the @ sign, he will be notified and possibly might jump in.
What questions did You have about the wiring ?
Oh, pardon My bad manners, welcome to the forum.
I’m not sure where a schematic could be obtained from. It seems that @Jaryd had a schematic for some type of a truck rig that He has for sale. With the @ sign, he will be notified and possibly might jump in.
What questions did You have about the wiring ?
Oh, pardon My bad manners, welcome to the forum.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Welcome. I don’t have schematics, but used to be a Mac Distributor some years back-.If I’d known then what I know now, the changes I would have made...
I don’t see any rv a/c-heater units on the roof. Is that yet to come on the build of not needed where you are?
I don’t see any rv a/c-heater units on the roof. Is that yet to come on the build of not needed where you are?
- Staff
- #6
Nice rig! Welcome to The Truck Stop!
Hi Will L. Nice to meet you. I have a engine driven compressor and a roof vent (80's style ) I'm in New England and as my truck is "open" to the public ( order-serving windows) a rv type a/c would be useless. What changes would you make? I rewired the entire interior with 12-3 and 14-2 wire and 10 traditional plugs with a main 14 slot breaker panel. I also have a 7kw rv generator.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I had a 6.5 onan running 2 roof top units. Needed 1 in either a/c or heat most the year
in Las Vegas, Nv.
I would be comfortable but making it good for the guys is what counts.
when it burned out I had it rebuilt- mistake. Should have bought New Honda instead. So much more fuel efficient.
window thing- can’t imagine that working. Normally 30% of purchases were after guys mulling around in truck and them showing each other- “Dude- you need this”.
carrying in the samples into the shops work. Make it a habit from day 1.
the 4 week turn was impossible here- my established competition ran 8-10 week turns.
Be ready (capital investment) for that.
I was #1 in box and total sales for my state.
Plan an economic exit strategies for every other month first 5 years in business. Failure rate is worse than restaurants.
I could take a phone call and go over a bunch of stuff learned this weekend if you want- I will send my phone on private message- just let me know.
in Las Vegas, Nv.
I would be comfortable but making it good for the guys is what counts.
when it burned out I had it rebuilt- mistake. Should have bought New Honda instead. So much more fuel efficient.
window thing- can’t imagine that working. Normally 30% of purchases were after guys mulling around in truck and them showing each other- “Dude- you need this”.
carrying in the samples into the shops work. Make it a habit from day 1.
the 4 week turn was impossible here- my established competition ran 8-10 week turns.
Be ready (capital investment) for that.
I was #1 in box and total sales for my state.
Plan an economic exit strategies for every other month first 5 years in business. Failure rate is worse than restaurants.
I could take a phone call and go over a bunch of stuff learned this weekend if you want- I will send my phone on private message- just let me know.
Hi Marty, Thanks for the info. I have had a restaurant closed it after seven years because I was so successful I was exhausted. The landlord and I could not come to a price on what he said was a gold mine (after I made it a hot spot) and I hate being held up so I closed. I then became a dealer at Foxwoods Resort and my biggest problem there was ,not only the guest but also the staff, asking me for recipes or stopping play to ask me why I closed ( I received a lot of publicity when I was open).I really. really do my homework. With the food truck I found my biggest enemy was time. Most of these trucks work like a standing restaurant. You come up ,give your order and they make it. Which is why they don't make it. Too long. I am selling food that can be ordered and sent every two minutes. No waiting in lines forever. Bing, bang, boom. In and out. What types of food? Comfort food - mac and cheese, lasagna, pot pie, grinders (sub sandwiches), soups (New England is cold half the year), casseroles and others. I use altoshams for cooking and warmers as they don't dry out the food and detract the flavor of the food. I was the Food and Beverage Manager of some big restaurants and country clubs in Florida including the 33rd largest grossing restaurant in the US in the 80's-90's. Food trucks. are a different breed of animal.
Now, can you tell me - if I remove the fuel lines on cylinders 2,4 & 6 ( I have a broken fuel line to the fuel filter) do I have to bleed those lines when I reattach them. I know very little about diesel engines - gas or airplane I know a lot but not so much diesel. Thanks, sorry if it seems like I'm ranting, I'm not. Just trying to explain. Be well.
Now, can you tell me - if I remove the fuel lines on cylinders 2,4 & 6 ( I have a broken fuel line to the fuel filter) do I have to bleed those lines when I reattach them. I know very little about diesel engines - gas or airplane I know a lot but not so much diesel. Thanks, sorry if it seems like I'm ranting, I'm not. Just trying to explain. Be well.
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
After you re-installl them leave them loose at the injector so air will bleed out,when they have fluid coming out around the nut then tighten them up.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I am dumb sometimes (the rest of the time I am sleeping). I didn’t pay attention to the windows you added in.
I thought you turned a food truck into a Mac tools truck and was going to sell tools. Didn’t realize you were going the other way! Haha
GOOD. Money first then product! Tools are the other way around, and it sux!
The fact that is was Mac, nothing to do with the truck schematics, parts, etc.
You have a Union City Body co. Aka Coachbuilt on a GM chassis.
I had different body mfr. so not familiar where to chase manuals for it. I will say when you find one- get it. Rare as hens teeth.
Many of the food trucks out here use the big motorized vent on top. If you need more volume later- look into that.
Post pics here of the engine so we can point out things that need addressed.
like mentioned just leave them loose and when you crank it to start, as the fuel spits out (will be a tiny amount) tighten them 1 by 1.
There are several engine killers for this rig that have no warning before letting go:
Engine oil cooler lines rupture- get a new set from Leroy’s Diesel or have hydraulic lines made to replace them.
Harmonic balancer failure destroys block/ crankshaft. For your use- get AC Delco. They are good for 100,000 miles or roughly 30 years if low mileage. The little rubber piece fails with age or wear. Get new belt drive at same time. If the front main seal is leaking, change it at same time, it is under harmonic balancer.
Add a clear line on the ip (injection pump) return line. This is for instant diagnostics of air or other contamination in fuel system. Water is massive damage to fuel system. Adding a fuel pressure gauge to the line just before the ip so you can read it when driving. Low fuel pressure ruins the ip quickly. Depending which ip you have DS4 is electronic and uses fly bywire throttle, it needs 8-14psi. The db2 is fully mechanical and uses Linkage/ cable to control throttle, it needs 2-5psi.
All rubber fuel line needs to be sae30r9. The clear tube off the ip I recommended would need to be replaced every 3 years or so, but is $5 and 5 minutes to replace.
My Brother in law runs Buddy V’s here in Vegas. I can’t cook but to save my life, but sure am good at eating!
Good to hear you know your industry.
I thought you turned a food truck into a Mac tools truck and was going to sell tools. Didn’t realize you were going the other way! Haha
GOOD. Money first then product! Tools are the other way around, and it sux!
The fact that is was Mac, nothing to do with the truck schematics, parts, etc.
You have a Union City Body co. Aka Coachbuilt on a GM chassis.
I had different body mfr. so not familiar where to chase manuals for it. I will say when you find one- get it. Rare as hens teeth.
Many of the food trucks out here use the big motorized vent on top. If you need more volume later- look into that.
Post pics here of the engine so we can point out things that need addressed.
like mentioned just leave them loose and when you crank it to start, as the fuel spits out (will be a tiny amount) tighten them 1 by 1.
There are several engine killers for this rig that have no warning before letting go:
Engine oil cooler lines rupture- get a new set from Leroy’s Diesel or have hydraulic lines made to replace them.
Harmonic balancer failure destroys block/ crankshaft. For your use- get AC Delco. They are good for 100,000 miles or roughly 30 years if low mileage. The little rubber piece fails with age or wear. Get new belt drive at same time. If the front main seal is leaking, change it at same time, it is under harmonic balancer.
Add a clear line on the ip (injection pump) return line. This is for instant diagnostics of air or other contamination in fuel system. Water is massive damage to fuel system. Adding a fuel pressure gauge to the line just before the ip so you can read it when driving. Low fuel pressure ruins the ip quickly. Depending which ip you have DS4 is electronic and uses fly bywire throttle, it needs 8-14psi. The db2 is fully mechanical and uses Linkage/ cable to control throttle, it needs 2-5psi.
All rubber fuel line needs to be sae30r9. The clear tube off the ip I recommended would need to be replaced every 3 years or so, but is $5 and 5 minutes to replace.
My Brother in law runs Buddy V’s here in Vegas. I can’t cook but to save my life, but sure am good at eating!
Good to hear you know your industry.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
Do you know what chassis it is? I’m assuming P32/42 Chassis.
Hi Will, sorry I didn't respond earlier but its a busy week. Lots of cookouts ( we do whole pigs, ribs, chicken, seafood, steaks, burgers and dogs and more) For an Italian restaurant we are very versatile. If you watch Restaurant Impossible with Robert Irving we have been on his show three times in the last year and one half. If you're interested, we are Perella's Restaurant, Warren, RI.
The reason I asked about the IP fuel line is because my main intake fuel line ( one that runs from the fuel pick up pump, up the block and under all the right side IP line to the fuel filter/ water separator ) has a split in it and I had to remove it. I took off the alternator, the bracket for the alternator and still crimped the line taking it out. That one long line with a 90 degree bend. Can I split that line and two piece it? I figure I could safely split it down where it runs behind the alternator as there is a stand-off bracket located there. Any thoughts? Thanks. Be well. Dan
Last edited by a moderator:
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Wow. That sounds like mechanical lift pump (pick up pump) bolted to the engine on the front passenger side? Or is there and
really hope that is a mechanical injection pump...
You might even have the old school brick fuel filter...
we really need pictures of the engine- multiple, from different angles..
really hope that is a mechanical injection pump...
You might even have the old school brick fuel filter...
we really need pictures of the engine- multiple, from different angles..
Hi Will, Nice to meet you. The IP is fine , it's the fuel line from the pick up pump ( the one that mounts on the frame and looks like a fuel filter on a gas engine - left side just aft of the batteries) to the fuel filter/ water separator that is my problem ( the IP is manual , on the left - middle side) that is giving me all the problems. Last winter it split at about middle of the intake valley pan location and when I attempted to start the engine it spewed diesel fuel . I got the old gas line out but to properly install a duplicate line I have to "lift" the IP lines to cylinders 2,4 and 6. Instead of screwing with something that is working great I was wondering of I can two part the line to make the bend ( the line runs from the back top of the block down the right side to the right front of the block down to a rubber connection line to the pick up pump) instead of trying to force the longggggg single line under the IP lines and down the block. I remover the alternator and the holding bracket, belt tensioner (which was frozen up!) and still did not have enough room to get the whole old piece out. Broke it in half! So, what do you think? Thanks for your time and interest. Dan
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Trucks like these run things WAY different than normal pickups.
My old Mac Tools truck had parts from about a 10 year span of normal pickups.
Try to understand- your descriptions don’t add up to what we normally see with 6.5 dies rigs.
Thats why we are asking for pictures.
For the fuel line that goes from the filter to the injection pump- buy sae30r9 to withstand the modern diesel fuel. My suggestion would be look over the rest of the truck and replace the rest of the fuel line while you are at it, as it will probably soon fail as well.
My old Mac Tools truck had parts from about a 10 year span of normal pickups.
Try to understand- your descriptions don’t add up to what we normally see with 6.5 dies rigs.
Thats why we are asking for pictures.
For the fuel line that goes from the filter to the injection pump- buy sae30r9 to withstand the modern diesel fuel. My suggestion would be look over the rest of the truck and replace the rest of the fuel line while you are at it, as it will probably soon fail as well.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
You could connect the two metal lines together with 30r9 hose if you wanted to. Like Will said though, probably need to plan on changing the whole line out to be safe.
OK boys. Here's some pictures of my project.
Ist One - where the bracket for the alt was on the front of the block.
2nd one - the fuel filter- not installed - just cleaned
3rd one - My cleaned up intake manifold
4th one my IP - notice the green wire clip on the top, just right of center, that was broken! could be one of my problems - it was like that I didn't do it. Green wire -ground?
5th one - THE bracket _ the pain in the ass bolt is the center one in the deep indent -
6th one - the greatest easy out bolt or nut tool you'll ever buy. On Amazon. After hours of frustration this little gem backed the bolt out like it was nothing! I can not say enough about this tool!!!
7th one - The bracket - cleaned up - new tensioner, sandblasted and repainted.
8th one - the reason for all this- notice the holes in the fuel line!
9th anmd last one - THE CULPRIT- the nasty old fuel line that got religion (holy) rotted out (broke in half as I removed it, and generally made my life miserable.
All this being said, I'm out of here, going to buy some new fuel line material and make up a new line. Enjoy the pics. Looking forward to your commets and ideas. Be well. Dan
Ist One - where the bracket for the alt was on the front of the block.
2nd one - the fuel filter- not installed - just cleaned
3rd one - My cleaned up intake manifold
4th one my IP - notice the green wire clip on the top, just right of center, that was broken! could be one of my problems - it was like that I didn't do it. Green wire -ground?
5th one - THE bracket _ the pain in the ass bolt is the center one in the deep indent -
6th one - the greatest easy out bolt or nut tool you'll ever buy. On Amazon. After hours of frustration this little gem backed the bolt out like it was nothing! I can not say enough about this tool!!!
7th one - The bracket - cleaned up - new tensioner, sandblasted and repainted.
8th one - the reason for all this- notice the holes in the fuel line!
9th anmd last one - THE CULPRIT- the nasty old fuel line that got religion (holy) rotted out (broke in half as I removed it, and generally made my life miserable.
All this being said, I'm out of here, going to buy some new fuel line material and make up a new line. Enjoy the pics. Looking forward to your commets and ideas. Be well. Dan
