• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My 95 GMC Suburban k1500

95gmcburb

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
2
Hello I wanna start by introducing myself. I'm James and I have a 95 GMC Suburban k1500 with the 5.7. I got it about a year and a half ago. The driveshaft had broken the straps that hold the ujoint onto the rear yoke. I fixed that and the differential was toast. I took the complete 8.5 10 bolt out from under the truck and opened it up. Ended up getting a Yukon posi center section and completely rebuilt it. I put it back in and replaced everything I touched painted everything got the driveshaft ujoints replaced and balanced. So this truck is completely new to me so I've begun the break in procedure. As I'm now driving it in town it's great. Runs good every now and then it'll hesitate upon taking off then fine. Now I'm at the point where I can put it on the highway and what I'm noticing is that the converter isn't locking out. I begun a more detailed inspection and from what I see is that all the chassis grounds are completely disintegrated. And the harness grounds have lots of corrosion and need replacing. I've ordered the gm service manual on CD 3304 pages. I notice that when I hit the turn signal all the needles in the instrument cluster bounce with the click. The gas gauge needle is usually pegged about a 1/4 of the way past full but goes to normal when it wants to. The water temperature gauge goes to about half the way between 210 and 260 and then when the thermostat opens it goes to 210 I replaced the thermostat to a 195° and it's functioning properly. Now that I'm getting up to higher speeds I'm noticing that no lockout and doing about 60mph and 3k on the tachometer. Aside from what I'm going to get once the manual arrives does anyone have any input on where to ground? I have 6awg tinned copper insulated wire and a hammer crimper. Also have a grinder with a flap wheel to make sure that there is good connection. For the firewall connections the stud is rusted out. Would it be better to clean a new spot near the old location and use a self tapping screw or should I make sure that I use that stud from the firewall? I also have several non insulated OE style ground straps. Any tips on making sure I don't overlook a very important ground or how I can ground the ECU and transmission so that I can see if the lockout works? Any input on this subject would be very much appreciated. And I'd like to thank everyone ahead of time for giving their 2 cents to possibly helping me out.
 
Many problems are fixed through proper connections and grounds.
From the back right side of the engine there should be a ground strap from the back of the head to the firewall. If that one is bad or gone, use about a 10 gauge wire and make a new grounding strap. From bell housing to FW.
I also like to run a ground from one of the intake manifold studs to the frame and from a stud to the fender well. One to tje fram I put on tje RH side and use a length of battery cable with terminal ends both ends.
I also like to use about a 10 gauge wire and make another ground strap from the left side intake manifold to the left side fender well and also another ground wire can be run from that one to the radiator support.
Any and all light and lamp grounds attached to the fender wells and radiator supports needs to be cleaned to bright and shiny too.
Get some corrosion preventive salve and apply a thin coating of that to any wire terminals and all ground stud/bolt locations.
The 1993 K1500 I once owned, it had two ground wires attached to tje front of the intake manifold, the thermostat housing area, IIRC, those two grounding wires I believe is for the ECM and if they are faulty can cause a lot of problems.
Welcome to the forum too.
 
Many problems are fixed through proper connections and grounds.
From the back right side of the engine there should be a ground strap from the back of the head to the firewall. If that one is bad or gone, use about a 10 gauge wire and make a new grounding strap. From bell housing to FW.
I also like to run a ground from one of the intake manifold studs to the frame and from a stud to the fender well. One to tje fram I put on tje RH side and use a length of battery cable with terminal ends both ends.
I also like to use about a 10 gauge wire and make another ground strap from the left side intake manifold to the left side fender well and also another ground wire can be run from that one to the radiator support.
Any and all light and lamp grounds attached to the fender wells and radiator supports needs to be cleaned to bright and shiny too.
Get some corrosion preventive salve and apply a thin coating of that to any wire terminals and all ground stud/bolt locations.
The 1993 K1500 I once owned, it had two ground wires attached to tje front of the intake manifold, the thermostat housing area, IIRC, those two grounding wires I believe is for the ECM and if they are faulty can cause a lot of problems.
Welcome to the forum too.
Thanks that gives me a great starting point. I'm hoping that's the issue with the converter lockup.
 
Back
Top