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Maintenance Day

RI Chevy Silveradoman

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Another year, another day of maintenance. All fluids, filters, and grease zerks done. Tires rotated, and air pressure checked and adjusted. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-40 this time. I cut all of the filters open, and they looked very good. I'll get picks of the filters tomorrow.
 

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btfarm

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Nice! Getting a UOA from Blackstone. What prior oil and how many miles/hours?
 

RI Chevy Silveradoman

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Pictures of Filters and Cans

I was using Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-40. I had 8081 (6 months) miles on the oil. I got very good results from the Mobil Delvac last time around. I am going to try the Synthetic this time around, seeing that I bought it a year ago and had it lying in the garage. My filters all looked very good. Fuel filters looked hardly used. I have 2 years on the CAT 1R-0750 (front), and 1 year on the Baldwin 7587 Tall Can (rear), both of which are 2 micron. The worst looking filter was the FS2500 bypass oil filter. Oil was black, but missing all of the soot/grit. Smooth as can be in between the fingers. :thumbsup:

Notice the Filter Magnet marks on the inside of the cans. They really work well. I always have more residue on the Allison than any other. Not to much inside the fuel filter. And take notice of the differences between the filter heads. The CAT is aluminum, and has a deep neck with more threads. Definitely made better. And the filter has tape that holds the pleats together. The small fuel filter has 2 years on it versus the Tall can that has 1 year on it. Still a lot of usage left in it after 1 year.
 

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orrum

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I use Mobil delvac 1300 15w40 due to a reccomendation by a member here. I felt n still worry about this 20 lb idle and 40 ld driving oil pressure thing. Uding Rotella I got definitely less than 20 lbs at a idle after a few miles after oil change. The Mobile delvac stays above 20 at a idle even after pulling hard for hours!
 

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I finally broke down and drained the Dexron VI out of the Allison and switched to Transynd today.

Did the following method: drained the Dexron VI, filled with Transynd, drove truck for 30 minutes got tranny temp. up to 165 to 170 finally, drained that Transynd, changed the spin on filter, refilled with another 7.4 Quarts or so of Transynd.

Costed me a few bucks, but that is done and I should be good for a while.

The Dexron VI looked like new and had the original red color with no burnt smell. Truck had 47,918 miles on it and has not been worked hard at all. I think Allison reccomends changing the fluid at 50,000 miles for lite duty (correct me if I am wrong).
 

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You are correct. 50K. When I drained my Dex VI, it also looked and smelled like brand new. I had more miles on the odometer than you when I did the switchover.
 

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You are correct. 50K. When I drained my Dex VI, it also looked and smelled like brand new. I had more miles on the odometer than you when I did the switchover.
Have you noticed that the Allison Temps. run any different as far as lower or higher with the Transynd. I read where some people thought the temps. ran a little higher with the Transynd and others said it was about the same as the Dexron VI.

Today it was about 72 degrees outside and I never thought the Allison temps. were going to reach 160, but after some hard running the temps. finally got up to about 165 to 170. Some people think that generally you can add 100 degrees to the outside temperature and that will be close to your Allison temperature.
 

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TRANSYND will run about 30 degrees cooler than DEX III, and about 15-20 degrees cooler than DEX VI. Also don't be alarmed when the tRANSYND changes color. It will not stay red for long, and will turn to an amber or brown color within 10K miles or so. It has to deal with the dye that CASTROl uses doesn't hold it's color due to the TRANSYNDS base oil stock.
 

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Damn I need to change out my Dex VI to Transynd. Hoot method would be the right (and cheapest) way though.
 

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I felt that my tranny temps were a little cooler while using Transynd. But I also put on a deep pan at the time of the fluid change. I haven't noticed any color change yet. I will check later today.
 

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A deep pan doesn't really help to lower trans temps much(unless it is a cast aluminum finned unit with cooling tubes through it in which case they can drop trans temps by about 20 degrees), just makes it take longer to heat up since there is more fluid(but it also makes it take longer to cool down once it's hot). And I also like the HOOT method for changing the fluid out.
 

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So I was bored the other night and was looking at the gasser section at the "other" place. I ended up stumbling across one of the stickies in the Allison OEM section that I thought was very informative. It's a retired guy who was directly involved in developing fluids and testing for the Allison 1000. There's 40 pages, but I just skipped everything except his replies (yes I was VERY bored that night :D ). I would highly recommend reading his replies, they are very intelligent and no childish rants or bashing. One thing he explains in detail is the issue between Dex III, Dex VI, Transynd, etc. with the tranny seals and different model years. Most of it we all probably know, but I did learn a lot. Don't remember what page it was, but he said he would do a double drain before doing the Hoot method.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=420656
 

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I went over and read the 1st 11 pages of that thread. GREAT info there and the 2x drain interval to the TES-295 rated fluid of your choice is sufficient. IIRC, with the std pan that would be 2 x 8 qts or 4 gallons. 5 gallons of it will do the job with plenty to spare. That's easier to do than the Hoot method.
 

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I went over and read the 1st 11 pages of that thread. GREAT info there and the 2x drain interval to the TES-295 rated fluid of your choice is sufficient. IIRC, with the std pan that would be 2 x 8 qts or 4 gallons. 5 gallons of it will do the job with plenty to spare. That's easier to do than the Hoot method.
That was where I got some of my info. I was a little hesitant to do the Hoot method with limited abilities and time. The 2X drain method was pretty easy.

I bought 5 gallons (about 41.00 per gallon) at the Allision Dealer, figuring that was better to have extra versus getting in the middle of the job and running short. Also later on as I change the spin on filter I will have plenty of fluid for that. I figured that what was left from 4 gallons was close to a quart. Bear in mind that I do not have a deep pan so the best I figure is it takes close to 7.4 Quarts to fill the Allision back up, maybe a little more if you change the spin on filter.
 

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It's about 7 quarts to do a standard drain and fill on a trans that has just been run. If you let it sit overnight with the drain plug out you will get more out of it(the converter will drain down some if you let it sit with the plug out, normally about an extra gallon if it fully drains down). Also if you drop the pan and do a TRANSGO JR on a trans that was just run, it is right at 9 quarts to refill it.
 

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*************UPDATE***************

I just got done with my yearly maintenance consisting of the same items in the first post. My big can fuel filter was not that dirty, and the Allison spin on did not have that much iron residue on the magnet. Maybe the engine and transmission are finally broken in and I am seeing less and less residue? My oil filters looked just the same from the filter magnets with residue on the insides of the cans. I refilled with Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Oil and I used a Mobil 1 extended interval oil filter. My FS2500 filter looked the same as it always does, heavily loaded with the soot particles. I am sure glad that I installed this bypass oil filter. It was a great investment.

I chose not to get a UOA this time around. I had 12172 miles on this oil change for the year. Oil still looked and felt good.

I am at 99089 miles as of 7-5-2013. :D
 
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